LED strip soldering splice code violation?

[Jhonny]

Would soldering a wire to a LED strip violate code 110.14(B)? As far as it not being mechanically and electrically secured before soldering?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Fred B]

Not sure of code specifically, but would likely void MFG warranty.
If MFG designed the connections to be field soldered the connection points usually have a small hole to mechanically attach to before soldering.
Soldering doesn't make the connection, it just makes it "permanent", thus the requirements of 110.14.

 

[infinity]

IMO soldering an LED strip has nothing to do with 110.14.

 

[Fred B]

IMO soldering an LED strip has nothing to do with 110.14.

Well, most soldered points for supply wiring will pass through the component board and bend over to the solder point, effectively mechanically securing the wire to the board with the Z offset of the wire, thus sort of fitting the 110.14(B) "mechanically" secured but would fail the "electrically" secured . But most if not all these soldered connections are part of the mfg. process and covered under the product "listing", and not a field connection, thus exempt from NEC.
Field modification, "unless instructed by the mfg. and allowed", would have implications related to its "listing" and could be from that view a code issue.

So what is OP trying to do, a field modification, or a repair?

 

[Jhonny]

Well, most soldered points for supply wiring will pass through the component board and bend over to the solder point, effectively mechanically securing the wire to the board with the Z offset of the wire, thus sort of fitting the 110.14(B) "mechanically" secured but would fail the "electrically" secured . But most if not all these soldered connections are part of the mfg. process and covered under the product "listing", and not a field connection, thus exempt from NEC.
Field modification, "unless instructed by the mfg. and allowed", would have implications related to its "listing" and could be from that view a code issue.

So what is OP trying to do, a field modification, or a repair?

I’m brushing up on chapter 1 and this code caught my attention because I see a lot of people soldering low voltage wires to LED strips that are used for under cabinet lighting.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[LarryFine]

LED ribbons are made to be field cut and re-terminated for custom lengths.

 

[ptonsparky]

I have one strip that does not like the end that came with it. Solder will be the next fix.

 

[tom baker]

Do the mfgs instructions allow for soldering?

 

[LarryFine]

Do the mfgs instructions allow for soldering?

Don't ask/don't tell.

 

[ppsh]

The factory whips on the ends of these are soldered to the led tape, and a piece of heat shrink is used as a strain relief.

The set screw splices that come with these are absolute garbage. It's not a matter of if, just when it loosens and the lights start flickering. Ive put hundreds of feet of the stuff and will only solder. Look every few feet on the tape, there is a factory splice where they're soldered together.

 

[jaggedben]

Field soldering doesn't necessarily have the same quality control as factory soldering. I would never repair a solder joint on the type of equipment I install (but I don't install LED strips).

I'm getting that these things may violate the NEC but that could be avoided with the right documentation. Anybody have an install manual that instructs the installer on how to solder pieces of LED strip together?

 

[ppsh]

From Aspect LEDs tape light instructions.

• Verify that your strip light is acceptable for use in wet locations by looking for a “approved for wet location” label on the outside of the product packaging. Remember that only the strips are approved for wet locations (power supplies and connectors are not approved unless stated). Cut strip to length, then, using a razor blade, carefully remove the silicone jacket to provide access to the copper solder pads. Solder your wires to the strip(s). Fill an end-cap with silicone and carefully slide the end cap over the wires (you may need to poke small holes for the wires) securing it firmly against the strip light. Wipe off any excess silicone and allow to dry before connecting power or submerging.

 

[ActionDave]

I solder mine. The connectors that come with most led strips are pitiful.

 

[garbo]

Wow soldering. Thought that was rare for sparkies to perform. Retired and still have the Weller 100/140 watt soldering gun that my electrician dad bought me back in the 1960's. Still have a Weller 25 watt soldering iron that I used to assembly a Healthkit 25" TV 50 years ago. Took a master correspondence course in TV & Electronics and the VA paid for 90% of it. Also put together a radio, tube & transistor tester, & an Occiliscope. We were taught to make a joint or connection mechanically secure before soldering. Still have a halve roll of 5 core rosin filled 50/50 solder that I purchased back in the late 60's. Recently did a Google search to see if anybody still sells a 5 tube radio kit that would be fun to assembly.

 

[PaulMmn]

Soldering guns have given way to soldering pencils with heat-controlled tips! The tip on a soldering gun is about 1/8" square by 1/4" deep-- lots of heat for big clunking circuit boards! It would bridge at least 3 leads on an integrated circuit! I haven't used mine in decades. Literally.
Radio Snack used to sell a soldering station with a needle-point wand that plugs into a base station. The one I have looks similar to this one. It lets you assemble teensy-weensy things. I have the magnifying headset I use to see the teensy-weensy things.

 

[ptonsparky]

The shake of my hands negates soldering anything teensie-weensie.

 

[garbo]

Soldering guns have given way to soldering pencils with heat-controlled tips! The tip on a soldering gun is about 1/8" square by 1/4" deep-- lots of heat for big clunking circuit boards! It would bridge at least 3 leads on an integrated circuit! I haven't used mine in decades. Literally.
Radio Snack used to sell a soldering station with a needle-point wand that plugs into a base station. The one I have looks similar to this one. It lets you assemble teensy-weensy things. I have the magnifying headset I use to see the teensy-weensy things.
View attachment 2569851

Great looking soldering station. Can not remember what solder combination had the lowest melting point. Know it's not 50/50 but thinking 60/40 or think they made a combination between these two. Got some home made cookies a few times when I used to bring in my 25 watt soldering irons solder the link on charm brackets when they were popular back in the 1970's.

 

[retirede]

Great looking soldering station. Can not remember what solder combination had the lowest melting point. Know it's not 50/50 but thinking 60/40 or think they made a combination between these two. Got some home made cookies a few times when I used to bring in my 25 watt soldering irons solder the link on charm brackets when they were popular back in the 1970's.

60/40 was standard for electrical soldering, plumbing solder was usually 50/50. The higher the tin content (first number), the lower the melting point.
Of course, no more lead these days….

 

[PaulMmn]

60/40 was standard for electrical soldering, plumbing solder was usually 50/50. The higher the tin content (first number), the lower the melting point.
Of course, no more lead these days….

60/40 (with lead) is still available.
63/37 is the 'best' blend; 60/40 is close. don't know why it is easier to manufacture.

 

[retirede]

60/40 (with lead) is still available.
63/37 is the 'best' blend; 60/40 is close. don't know why it is easier to manufacture.

Correct. Lead solder is still available in the US. But it’s no longer legal to use for plumbing applications.
The EU banned it completely in 2018.