Use of expansion joint with 2" PVC overhead service

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I'm installing a 200 A service overhead using 2" PVC. I would like to use an expansion joint, even if not required, on the conduit from meter to service head. The conduit goes up 6', 45's 10', then 45's 3' to the head. I'm using strut and strut clamps. I would like to put it in the angled section, centered between the 2 45's. I know the opening of expansion joint faces down. Is this the proper usage? Thanks.

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iwire

Moderator
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Location
Massachusetts
You can use the expansion joint as you describe. In my opinion it will not serve any purpose at all.


On the other hand strut clamps will not allow the PVC to move which is code required.

I would use a lot of Arlington 2 hole PVC hangers which is code compliant.
 

kenman215

Senior Member
Location
albany, ny
You can use the expansion joint as you describe. In my opinion it will not serve any purpose at all.


On the other hand strut clamps will not allow the PVC to move which is code required.

I would use a lot of Arlington 2 hole PVC hangers which is code compliant.

I've never done an overhead service with anything other than rigid. Is the weather head a PVC body that gets glued on to the riser?
 
I was using shallow strut to space it off the wall.I could make the clamps semi tight but the 2 hole straps are better. I guess your implying that the expansion of the PVC is minimal and there is room to expand. Thanks

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I'm switching to PVC for services after seeing lots of SE cables deteriorated from the weather or maybe from being painted. It's allowed around here, but heard rigid steel conduit is required in some areas.

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ADub

Senior Member
Location
Midwest
Occupation
Estimator/Project Manager
If you don't use the correct strut straps your slip fitting is worthless. Actually it's probably worthless either way


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iwire

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Massachusetts
It won't hurt and it is fine with the code.

The strut straps are a problem.

Keep in mind the support requirements for PVC are closer than 10'.
 
It won't hurt and it is fine with the code.

The strut straps are a problem.

Keep in mind the support requirements for PVC are closer than 10'.
I was going to strap it every 4' and leave the straps semi tight. I'm using shallow strut to space it out. But I do have a 2" PVC offset nipple to get it against the wall for the 2 hole Arlington straps. Spacing it off the wall allows the conduit to pass trim pieces and to come straight up out of the top of the meter.

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peter d

Senior Member
Location
New England
I'm switching to PVC for services after seeing lots of SE cables deteriorated from the weather or maybe from being painted. It's allowed around here, but heard rigid steel conduit is required in some areas.

PVC is only a marginal improvement over SE cable (in my opinion) for an increase in labor and material cost, that's why I use SE cable as do 95% of the electricians in my area. I commonly encounter SE cable services that were installed in the 1970's that are still in good shape and functional.
 

iwire

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Massachusetts
I was going to strap it every 4' and leave the straps semi tight.

I am not trying to bust your chops but there is no way to leave a structure clamp loose enough to let the PVC slide through it and also not let the clamp slide sideways in the strut.

4' is great, the code requires no more than 5' with 2" PVC.

Why is your heart set on strut? Strut is ugly in most cases.
 

JoeyD74

Senior Member
Location
Boston MA
Occupation
Electrical contractor
PVC is only a marginal improvement over SE cable (in my opinion) for an increase in labor and material cost, that's why I use SE cable as do 95% of the electricians in my area. I commonly encounter SE cable services that were installed in the 1970's that are still in good shape and functional.

Why do you think pvc is only marginally better? I bet 95% of service calls I get for water in the panel or meter are SE services, Main reason I don't use it.
 
I'm switching to PVC for services after seeing lots of SE cables deteriorated from the weather or maybe from being painted. It's allowed around here, but heard rigid steel conduit is required in some areas.

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Even if it's allowed there for service raceway, it has to be min 2" rigid if it's being used as support for the overhead conductors (I'm sure everyone already knows this, just figured I'd mention it)


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peter d

Senior Member
Location
New England
Why do you think pvc is only marginally better?

PVC, just like SE cable, gets brittle from sunlight over time.

I bet 95% of service calls I get for water in the panel or meter are SE services, Main reason I don't use it.

I get them too, just last week I had to temporarily repair a panel with water damage getting in through the cable. It doesn't stop me from using it. Water entry is due to poor installation practice. There are products that need to be used correctly so that doesn't happen. The primary reason why water gets into the panel with SE cable is because of hack electricians who use duct seal on top of the so-called water tight connector on top of the meter socket, and where the cable enters the house, and/or leave too much neutral conductor exposed where it enters the weatherhead. The duct seal dries out and you end up with water in the panel and meter socket. I use silicone or phenoseal to solve those problems.
 
PVC, just like SE cable, gets brittle from sunlight over time.



I get them too, just last week I had to temporarily repair a panel with water damage getting in through the cable. It doesn't stop me from using it. Water entry is due to poor installation practice. There are products that need to be used correctly so that doesn't happen. The primary reason why water gets into the panel with SE cable is because of hack electricians who use duct seal on top of the so-called water tight connector on top of the meter socket, and where the cable enters the house, and/or leave too much neutral conductor exposed where it enters the weatherhead. The duct seal dries out and you end up with water in the panel and meter socket. I use silicone or phenoseal to solve those problems.
The SE cable I'm replacing was about 20 yrs. old. The jacket was split open a half inch wide along about 10' of it. The rest of it was very brittle. PVC would last a lot longer. I sprayed all the strut and straps with galvanizing paint. By using short pieces of strut the straps can't slide much due to the heads of the lag bolts and fender washers.

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peter d

Senior Member
Location
New England
The SE cable I'm replacing was about 20 yrs. old. The jacket was split open a half inch wide along about 10' of it. The rest of it was very brittle. PVC would last a lot longer.

To each their own, I deal with SE cable all the time and just don't see 20 year old cable failing the way you describe on a regular basis, almost never in fact. As I mentioned, services in my area are almost exclusively SE cable both old and new, so it's not something that I'm going to give up nor are the vast majority of other local electricians either.
 
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