Undercabinet power strips for kitchen

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Hello, everyone

I have a question, or need advice.
I am doing a rewire for a residential kitchen and the owners do not want the backsplash of the countertops to have any receptacles cut in through the tile backsplash. They want undercabinet power strips. Which is fine but I've yet to find a good product with enough outlets per foot and I'd prefer the strips to be GFCI so I don't need to put GFCI breakers in the panel (for convenience if tripped) .
Do any of you know of a manufacturer of such a beast?
I'm in Los Angeles so logistically that may help.
Besides the GFI built in, having four or six outlets per foot or eighteen inches would make me happy. There are only two upper cabinets and each is 36 inches wide. I've got each side on their own dedicated 20 amp circuit and the height requirements for receptacles on a backsplash is still within code if the strips are mounted under the cabinets.
Let me add something for background info. You're probably wondering why I want so many outlets per strip? Well the homeowner has a thing about having plenty of outlets. I rewired and brought to code this house (ca 1954 ish) and every receptacle in every room they wanted two-gang boxes with two duplex 20 amp receptacles. So, that gives you an idea of why I need plenty or outlets on a strip.
Maybe a computer server rack power strip manufacturer as a source? Any help would be so great and appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
 

jstjohnz

Member
I'm not sure how much luck you'll have finding one with a GFCI built in. Without the GFCI, something like a Tripp-Lite PS3612-20HW or similar might work. I would just install a couple of GFCI receptacles on a kitchen wall somewhere and let them feed the power strips. 2 of those side by side in a 2-gang box would fit right in.
 

darkov

Member
Location
Scottsdale, AZ
I don't think that TR is required. Only required outlets ( up to 5.5 ft.) should comply. Typically counter tops are at 36 in.H plus 20 in. to under cabinets =56 in.

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darkov

Member
Location
Scottsdale, AZ
I don't think that TR is required. Only required outlets ( up to 5.5 ft.) should comply. Typically counter tops are at 36 in.H plus 20 in. to under cabinets =56 in.

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk
Oops, my bad. 5.5 = 66 in. TR is required

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iwire

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Massachusetts
I don't think that TR is required. Only required outlets ( up to 5.5 ft.) should comply. Typically counter tops are at 36 in.H plus 20 in. to under cabinets =56 in.

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5.5 ft is 66", well above the bottom of the top cabinets.

TR is required.
 
I had a similar problem and used shallow wiremold boxes and put as many as needed. You cab get your TR receptacles in and also easier to break up the circuits. If you only want an AFCI breaker then put deadfront GFCIs in the front of cabinet under sink for access. You most likely will need a decorative molding on the underside of cabinets as you can only go so shallow. but it worked great and everyone was happy. Good luck.
 
Legrand makes a tamper resistant gfci system "2000GFI GFCI Steel Plugmold® Multioutlet System - 2000GFI" this is the description directly from their website:

"Plugmold® Multioutlet Systems are now available in a tamper-resistant GFCI version that is a great solution for adding GFCI protection to multiple outlets without having to install additional outlets. The tamper-resistant feature provides safety for multi-user facilities, residential living spaces and kitchens. Designed to mount on wall surfaces, the low profile, aesthetically-pleasing design is available in 3', 5' and 6' [915mm, 1.52m and 1.8m] lengths in a variety of colors and finishes."
 

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Thanks, everyone for your input and ideas. Some are better than others but all are good solid ideas to work off of. TBH I'm trying to stay away from traditional wiremold anything. I like the modular idea though. I had actually thought about that being that I just used some for an entertainment system about 8 months ago.
Now have I not read some memo or just not up on my Arc Fault locations, I say that because why in the world would I need Arc Faults in a kitchen for countertops receptacles?
As for running faceless GFI's in the cabinet under the sink that's a good idea. This kitchen is nearly finished. The plasterer is done the painter is almost done and the tile setter grouted the floor yesterday. I have my stubs coming out from the inside of the cabinets because the tile splash goes right up to the bottom of the cabinets. I do have a junction box inside the lower cabinet in the wall for homeruns for dw disp 2 recept circuits and switchleg for disp. if i had to GFI under the sink I could very easily.
Alright thanks again everyone
 
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