Romex Cable Install

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pete i

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Location
san jose ca.
I live in a two-story home and my furnace is located in my garage. I need to get a new Romex up to the second floor attic so I can have a dedicated Circuit for my bathroom.
My question is can my Romox wire be ran alongside of the duck work going up into the attic? I figure they'll be room alongside of the duck work going straight up from the garage into the attic.

Thanks
 
jumper

jumper

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I am closing this thread, in accordance with the Forum rules. This Forum is intended to assist professional electricians, inspectors, engineers, and other members of the electrical industry in the performance of their job-related tasks. However, if you are not an electrician or an electrical contractor, then we are not permitted to help you perform your own electrical installation work.


If I have misjudged the situation, if for example this project is related to your work, then send me a Private Message. If you can show me that I am wrong, and that you are a licensed electrician (or at least a licensed apprentice), then I will reopen your post, and offer an apology for the delay and inconvenience.
 
ActionDave

ActionDave

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Durango, CO, 10 h 20 min from the winged horses.
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pete i said:
I live in a two-story home and my furnace is located in my garage. I need to get a new Romex up to the second floor attic so I can have a dedicated Circuit for my bathroom.
My question is can my Romox wire be ran alongside of the duck work going up into the attic? I figure they'll be room alongside of the duck work going straight up from the garage into the attic.

Thanks
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I see nothing wrong with your p!an.
 
growler

growler

Senior Member
Location
Atlanta,GA
pete i said:
My question is can my Romox wire be ran alongside of the duck work going up into the attic? I figure they'll be room alongside of the duck work going straight up from the garage into the attic.
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Sure I've run romox alongside the duck work many times. ;) It's not a wet location or subject to physical damage right?

Those HVAC fellers often call it duct work.
 
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user 100

Senior Member
Location
texas
ActionDave said:
I see nothing wrong with your p!an.
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X2-Just be careful (duh) with any sharp edges that may be protruding-cable jams or snags, pull back out and check it. That thin metal is razor sharp and is known for butchering nm jackets.
 
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user 100

Senior Member
Location
texas
peter d said:
Try to find some new old stock romex on ebay. This new stuff rips and tears easily but that old stuff doesn't. :cool:
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That old stuff was tough-There was a brand which I can't recall- (I'm wanting it say it was colonial, or cirtex, started with a c, whatever) that had a thick white plastic jacket up until the early '90s( I think) that was a bear, it seemed almost as tough as uf is today. Much harder to slice into than the modern nm.
 
ptonsparky

ptonsparky

Tom
Location
NE (9.06 miles @5.9 Degrees from Winged Horses)
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EC - retired
In some distant memory of the past when I did residential, an area town had some restraints on running NM-B too close to ductwork. It had to be sleeved. Other than that we have fished a lot of cable through and over anything we could. If you are worried, fish some MC or AC up past it. Take an extra one up while your at it.
 
peter d

peter d

Senior Member
Location
New England
user 100 said:
That old stuff was tough-There was a brand which I can't recall- (I'm wanting it say it was colonial, or cirtex, started with a c, whatever) that had a thick white plastic jacket up until the early '90s( I think) that was a bear, it seemed almost as tough as uf is today. Much harder to slice into than the modern nm.
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Probably Cirtex, which they still make but it's not nearly like it was. I also see and work with lot of that old petrified NM from long dead companies like Anaconda, Phelps Dodge, AIW/ Narragansett, PWC/Triangle, Ettco, and Hatfield
 
U

user 100

Senior Member
Location
texas
pete i said:
I am worried about any code violations or maybe heat factor being next to the ductwork.
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I really don't think you have anything to worry about. If that duct work gets hot enough to radiate enough heat to damage that cable, you've got more serious issues going on-it'll be fine.
 
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wwhitney

Senior Member
Location
Berkeley, CA
Occupation
Retired
GoldDigger said:
Pretty certainly not, but the ambient temperature might get high enough to require derating of the NM ampacity.
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#12 Cu has a 90C ampacity of 30 amps, and the ambient correction factor for 90C conductors at 65C is 0.71, while at 70C it is 0.63. So barring any other correction factors, the ampacity of #12 NM remains above 20 amps through 65C, or 149F.

#14 Cu has a 90C ampacity of 25 amps, and the ambient correction factor for 90C conductors at 75C is 0.55. So barring any other correction factors, the ampacity for #14 NM remains above 15 amps through 70C, or 158F.

How hot are the ducts?

Cheers, Wayne
 
U

user 100

Senior Member
Location
texas
wwhitney said:
#12 Cu has a 90C ampacity of 30 amps, and the ambient correction factor for 90C conductors at 65C is 0.71, while at 70C it is 0.63. So barring any other correction factors, the ampacity of #12 NM remains above 20 amps through 65C, or 149F.

#14 Cu has a 90C ampacity of 25 amps, and the ambient correction factor for 90C conductors at 75C is 0.55. So barring any other correction factors, the ampacity for #14 NM remains above 15 amps through 70C, or 158F.

How hot are the ducts?

Cheers, Wayne
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I would doubt that the temperature on the outer surface of the duct work even if uninsulated would ever reach either one of those values, and the open space next to the duct should never reach those temps. Uncomfortably warm, yes, but not enough, imo, to require derating.
 
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