rduke
Member
- Location
- Savannah GA
- Occupation
- Electrical Engineer/Network Engineer
Hi all,
-My first post here. I am an electrical engineer and network engineer. Most of my electrical work is related to data centers and enterprise network equipment power (UPS, SPD's etc.) so I have a very narrow focus these days. This issue is not related to work though, and definitely not DIY so please bear with me.
Termites ate up my home's power service pole. When it fell it damaged my overhead service line’s attachment point. I am paying a LOT of money to a contractor and GA Power to move the service underground. All I want is for it to be done by the book, and that is my concern. I would welcome some expert comments on what the inspector wants.
The story:
The house was built in 1985 and the original ground was only to the cold water copper pipe on concrete slab.
The existing ground was supplemented around 2007 with two 10 ft. ground rods. The inspector was happy with the work done at the time.
Last week: My contractor mounted a new combination meter enclosure with built in disconnect close to the old meter. The plan is to do a cutover and remove the old equipment next week.
The inspector came by and was happy with the two new ground rods, but not the water pipe bond. Even though it is all copper, it does not qualify as a grounding electrode for several reasons, so that means it should simply be bonded right? The rub is where the inspector wants the water pipe bonded. The inspector wants it attached to the Intersystem Grounding Bridge - outside. I want it inside the customer load side of the service disconnect where it is protected and the neutral to ground bond exists. Please correct me if I am missing something, but 250-104 B says I can have the water pipe bonded to one of 5 locations, and the one I want to use is this option: "Grounded conductor at the service", and inspector says no.
I am just looking for some input and/or advice. It does not make sense to me, but I wanted to check with the experts to be sure. After discussing it with two of the electricians doing the work, they were not of much help as related to code compliance, which is the reason I am asking here. Thanks all. Sorry for the long post as I am detail oriented.
-My first post here. I am an electrical engineer and network engineer. Most of my electrical work is related to data centers and enterprise network equipment power (UPS, SPD's etc.) so I have a very narrow focus these days. This issue is not related to work though, and definitely not DIY so please bear with me.
Termites ate up my home's power service pole. When it fell it damaged my overhead service line’s attachment point. I am paying a LOT of money to a contractor and GA Power to move the service underground. All I want is for it to be done by the book, and that is my concern. I would welcome some expert comments on what the inspector wants.
The story:
The house was built in 1985 and the original ground was only to the cold water copper pipe on concrete slab.
The existing ground was supplemented around 2007 with two 10 ft. ground rods. The inspector was happy with the work done at the time.
Last week: My contractor mounted a new combination meter enclosure with built in disconnect close to the old meter. The plan is to do a cutover and remove the old equipment next week.
The inspector came by and was happy with the two new ground rods, but not the water pipe bond. Even though it is all copper, it does not qualify as a grounding electrode for several reasons, so that means it should simply be bonded right? The rub is where the inspector wants the water pipe bonded. The inspector wants it attached to the Intersystem Grounding Bridge - outside. I want it inside the customer load side of the service disconnect where it is protected and the neutral to ground bond exists. Please correct me if I am missing something, but 250-104 B says I can have the water pipe bonded to one of 5 locations, and the one I want to use is this option: "Grounded conductor at the service", and inspector says no.
I am just looking for some input and/or advice. It does not make sense to me, but I wanted to check with the experts to be sure. After discussing it with two of the electricians doing the work, they were not of much help as related to code compliance, which is the reason I am asking here. Thanks all. Sorry for the long post as I am detail oriented.
