Computer and device issues related to problematic grounding currents?

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Sesh

Member
Location
United States
Occupation
agriculture
Hi all, this is going to be long so bear with me. I figured I should bring this here having tried many tech related forums with little success. So I have a power problem of some sorts that I believe is related to currents on my grounding conductors.

Essentially I have some non destructive interference problems with all the devices in my home (3 desktop PCs, laptops, phones, TVs, game consoles etc). All of these devices display issues with input drops and delays (mouse, keyboard etc), degraded display quality (blurry, occasional graphical errors etc), degraded sound, and really poor network performance (both wired Ethernet and Wifi cutting out intermittently or acting very strange). I have adequately ruled out all the devices in my home and all hardware many times over. I have replaced virtually every cable, component and peripheral multiple times over.

Other appliances in the home act strange: Oven randomly takes an hour to preheat sometimes (usually when it rains). Brand new printer up and crapped out. Turning on lights somewhere in the house will cause others to dim or brighten. Same with using other devices such as washer/dryer, dishwasher, garbage disposal etc.

I have killed every breaker but one and tried my devices on one circuit at a time testing each one throughout the home. I have double checked many times over my outlets with a multi meter. My laptop on battery still displays all of the issues (intermittently throughout the day) so I believe it is to some degree radiated interference. I have tried a true sine, Online Double Conversion UPS and power conditioners for my desktops.

Have had POCO out 4 times to double check all of their connections. Even checked everything at the pole as well.

I hired a pretty good electrician (after trying with 2 that could not assist me) to come check it out and after checking everything over multiple times, suspecting that there was a loose or intermittent neutral. Instead all he found was that I had 6-7 amps of current across my metallic waterlines. He speculated that the EMF from this net current was the cause of much of my issues- particularly the Wifi problems. He said the amperage was a result of multiple factors: neighbors corroded/rusted neutral feeder, and our corroded neutral feeder, and the fact that the bonded utility service offered a parallel neutral return path. We had him replace the entire thing (meter base and mast connections) and worked with our neighbors to tighten up their connection. The amperage went down to about 3-4amps. While some of the symptoms of my device problems lessened, it is all still there. I now own a clamp meter and at times the amperage drops very low (.2-.6amps) and while my laptop on battery works fairly well, the problems are still entirely there for my desktops. I feel that there is some correlation between the objectionable current across my waterline and the interference screwing with my electronics.

Now I know multiple people out there with this same issue. Here is a post detailing the issue in a bit more depth and explaining some of the symptoms, which I can go into far more depth on as to my own observations and tests.

Input Lag thread

In this post many people tell the OP that it must be a grounding problem. Now what I am hoping people here can clarify for me:

What is the role of EGC for computers? Is it for a voltage reference or merely for safety? Can problems arise from a bad ground?

What would you suspect could potentially be the issue here? I would think the interference (RFI or EMI) would want to travel on the grounded conductors back to the transformer. But it is clearly not doing that and me and my electrician are out of ideas.

What are some measurements I could take that would help me diagnose this issue? I have a multi meter, a clamp meter, a Tri Field TF2, and an AM radio.

Is there a better place I can post this to hopefully find someone knowledgeable enough to assist me?

I can provide much, much more info but wanted to end it here as it is probably already too long. Any assistance is greatly appreciated.
 
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LarryFine

Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
Location
Henrico County, VA
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
Simplest answer first. Compare your line-to-neutral voltages, and see whether they match, especially during issues.
 

Dennis Alwon

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Chapel Hill, NC
Occupation
Retired Electrical Contractor
If you are intermittently having issues with your oven then you either have an oven issue or you have a problem with one of the phases. This could be a power company issue or a panel issue. Are you having trouble with other 240v equipment? If so then it is definitely a problem on one phase. I would check the voltage at the panel with everything on that you can think of and see if there is a drop in the voltage
 

petersonra

Senior Member
Location
Northern illinois
Occupation
engineer
It is hard to tell what your problem might be from your description of it.

It could be several different problems.

Your "solution" may just have masked the real problem(s).
 

tom baker

First Chief Moderator
Staff member
f you have a metallic water service line to the main in the street, some of the neutral current is trying to get back to the utility transformer. Or it could be from your neighbors house where they have a bad neutral.
If you have a metallic water service line one solution would be to install a short length of non metallic pipe by the water meter. Your electrician should check to make sure you have a supplemental ground for the water line (normally ground rods), and when you cut the water line there is a shock hazard, may need to check with your water supplier to turn off the meter.
Its most likely not a grounding problem.
 
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Sesh

Member
Location
United States
Occupation
agriculture
Hey, thanks everyone for the replies.

In my post I detailed I have had POCO out 4 different times now- the guys went up in a cherry picker and checked every connection/crimp on their transformer and the cable to my home. They verified there was no voltage drop. My electrician (whom I trust) was present for it all one of those times. And took measurements himself at my panel with load on the system. Everything checked out. I don't believe its possible that the open/lose neutral is on my end after having my entire meter base and mast installed brand new. Had it inspected, checked by POCO and the whole thing. Can post pics if you do not believe me.

I have never had a "solution" here. The problems vary in degree constantly but are never fully gone. For what its worth I have verified that all my equipment works properly at another locations (my friends). It is very clear to me that when it rains a lot (which it does here often) the problems are exasperated. The power lines here are all overhead, with 6 homes on transformer.

We do have a very aged ground rod on the other side of our home (opposite the meter base/panel). The bond is underground and I cannot verify that it is good but my electrician seemed to think so. Is there a way to test the resistance or verify that it is connected? It looks pretty corroded can post a pic.

Anyway I am kind of at a loss having hired 3 electricians, having POCO out many times, spoke with a few EE's etc. I know something is wrong because my devices are still not working as intended but I have no idea how to track the cause.

If you like I can post my electricians emails (breakdown of the problem) here.
 
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Sesh

Member
Location
United States
Occupation
agriculture
f you have a metallic water service line to the main in the street, some of the neutral current is trying to get back to the utility transformer. Or it could be from your neighbors house where they have a bad neutral.
If you have a metallic water service line one solution would be to install a short length of non metallic pipe by the water meter. Your electrician should check to make sure you have a supplemental ground for the water line (normally ground rods), and when you cut the water line there is a shock hazard, may need to check with your water supplier to turn off the meter.
Its most likely not a grounding problem.

I have looked into this isolating of the waterline as my electrician told me it was the only real way to get this objectionable current off my grounding conductor while staying within NEC. However I am not sure it is even worth it as I cannot tell if my problems are undoubtedly linked to the current on the waterline. As I understand it some amperage across the waterline is fairly normal with an electrically continuous utility connecting homes like this.

I was hoping someone could tell me how a PC references ground (or doesnt) and if that could somehow cause what I have seen. I am certain there is transient currents (interference) on my data cables as installing ferrite or toroid cores makes instant differences to how my peripherals preform.
 

Dennis Alwon

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Chapel Hill, NC
Occupation
Retired Electrical Contractor
Please do not post your electricians email....

I still think there is an issue with a phase. If the issue is worse during the rain then there must be some leakage at either the transformer or at the overhead conductors. It also v\can be a bad main breaker or bad connection from the factory.

Issues all over the house is a clue. I have had power company out 3 or 4 times to a job and they insisted nothing was wrong. I finally called the engineer and explained what was going on... he immediately knew it was a bad neutral. Next visit they fixed the problem.

If power company has redone the connections at the trany as well as at the house then the problem is either the transformer or something in the new panel. Is the service panel outside or inside?
 

Sesh

Member
Location
United States
Occupation
agriculture
Please do not post your electricians email....

I still think there is an issue with a phase. If the issue is worse during the rain then there must be some leakage at either the transformer or at the overhead conductors. It also v\can be a bad main breaker or bad connection from the factory.

Issues all over the house is a clue. I have had power company out 3 or 4 times to a job and they insisted nothing was wrong. I finally called the engineer and explained what was going on... he immediately knew it was a bad neutral. Next visit they fixed the problem.

If power company has redone the connections at the trany as well as at the house then the problem is either the transformer or something in the new panel. Is the service panel outside or inside?

No haha of course. I just meant I would post his description of the issue as the write up he gave me was informative. Which new service panel would that be? My homes service panel? It is in the basement. Or do you mean the meter box? That is outside.

What would you mean by bad connection from the factory? The substation?
 
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I'd be looking closely at-
voltage sags around the house
loose neutrals in the house panel (was that checked? I didn't see it mentioned)
when do problems happen (time correlation)

Optional are-
are there radio transmitters nearby?
radar sites (such as an airport or airbase)?

What's the wiring to the electric stove? 3 or 4-wire? Has it been checked? (Can't really see what that would matter, but if it has L-N loads and a dodgy neutral, that could cause problems.)

Grounding would be the least of my concerns, lots of consumer computer gear doesn't even have a ground lead and that's not going to affect things like wifi performance.
 

Sesh

Member
Location
United States
Occupation
agriculture
I'd be looking closely at-
voltage sags around the house
loose neutrals in the house panel (was that checked? I didn't see it mentioned)
when do problems happen (time correlation)

Optional are-
are there radio transmitters nearby?
radar sites (such as an airport or airbase)?

What's the wiring to the electric stove? 3 or 4-wire? Has it been checked? (Can't really see what that would matter, but if it has L-N loads and a dodgy neutral, that could cause problems.)

Grounding would be the least of my concerns, lots of consumer computer gear doesn't even have a ground lead and that's not going to affect things like wifi performance.

Sorry I am new to taking my own measurements. How can I measure voltage sags around the house? I am guessing I need to have a load on.

Loose neutrals in the house panel were checked at least 3 times by 3 different electricians.

The problems interfering with devices is always present, but to varying degrees. The Wifi and stove "work" they just display strange intermittent behaivor that I have not been able to correlate with anything.

Not sure on radio transmitters. No radar sites, airports or airbases nearby.

This is the gas range stove: https://www.subzero-wolf.com/wolf/ranges/gas-range/36-inch-gas-range-6-burners
It has been checked by a technician and my electrician took a peak at it but could not conclude anything. The interesting thing is after we had the meter base and mast replaced (neutral feeder) it preheats more reliably now.

It is not so much that I am concerned with the grounding as I am trying to narrow the cause of the systematic issues. From everything I have read a UPS like the one I have (https://www.tripplite.com/smartonli...mpwebcard-option-usb-db9-serial~SU1000RTXL2UA) should fully filter the mains AC. But maybe the affects to my electronics is entirely some radiated interference?

I am fairly sure my grounding is affected by this issue but not the cause. Some folks with similar problems report that pouring water and salts on their ground rod makes the device problems go away temporarily. I have tried it but not seen major affect.
 
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Sesh

Member
Location
United States
Occupation
agriculture
Try turning off your main power completely, and see if there is still any water-line current.

There is still current. My electrician measured between .5-3 amps with our house powered off. When he clamped the water mains on my neighbors property he found 15amps. After working with them I believe that was reduced to 6-7 amps. For the last week I have been measuring daily multiple times a day and have not seen it go above 1 amp (with my house on of course). Yet all the issues are still present.
 

LarryFine

Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
Location
Henrico County, VA
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
There is still current. My electrician measured between .5-3 amps with our house powered off.
Neighbor's neutral issue.

When he clamped the water mains on my neighbors property he found 15amps. After working with them I believe that was reduced to 6-7 amps.
Neighbor's neutral issue.

For the last week I have been measuring daily multiple times a day and have not seen it go above 1 amp (with my house on of course). Yet all the issues are still present.
Hmmm.

Next experiment: Do you have any other metallic services you can temporarily disconnect, like cable TV? Be wary of possible voltage across the disconnected cable, perhaps check for voltage between their coax shield and yours.
 

Sesh

Member
Location
United States
Occupation
agriculture
Next experiment: Do you have any other metallic services you can temporarily disconnect, like cable TV? Be wary of possible voltage across the disconnected cable, perhaps check for voltage between their coax shield and yours.

Agreed on the neighbors neutral issue. However still I have only seen partial correlation with the water pipes current levels and my device issues/appliance problems. Definitely nothing conclusive. And to me it seems like there is more too these interference issues. I should add that my electrician suggested they get their neutral feeder connection replaced and they said no chance as they own a historic home and to replace it they would have to change the setup to be in accordance with NEC.

I do have cable TV/Internet. I had an ISP tech come out before all of the power troubleshooting to see about the intermittent outages and when he hooked up his tablet device he said there was current on the coax. Said it was the power companies fault and to contact them- which then lead to all the rest. He also measured two HDMIs going from each cable box to the TVs and found 15V on both. No idea how he measured that but he said he had seen it before and it was a POCO problem. Anyway since then I have tried disconnecting the coax multiple times. We had the ISP out here again to replace all the connections and splitters because we could not get certain channels. I tried placing some ferrite cores on the coax at the ISP drop and my mouse on my desktop actually track differently. Its kind of bizarre.

Other than that we have gas and water those are the only other utility services.
 
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synchro

Senior Member
Location
Chicago, IL
Occupation
EE
How do the desktops behave if you turn off the circuit breaker in the panel that provides power to the UPS? The UPS would then be providing the power.
If the desktops still have problems then also unplug the cord that powers the UPS to see if that has any effect.
 

Sesh

Member
Location
United States
Occupation
agriculture
How do the desktops behave if you turn off the circuit breaker in the panel that provides power to the UPS? The UPS would be providing the power.
If the desktops still have problems then also unplug the cord that powers the UPS to see if that has any effect.

Ah yes I forgot to mention that. If I run my desktop(s) off of the UPS battery (unplugging the cord directly from the outlet) the problems seem nearly fixed. Have not tried flipping the breaker for the circuit itself while running my PCs on the UPS on that circuit. I can only test this scenario for around 4-5 minutes but the problem is greatly reduced (not 100%). The reason this confuses me is I can run my laptop on battery and the problems are still entirely apparent. Maybe the metal chassis of my desktop helps to shield against the radiated interference?
 

synchro

Senior Member
Location
Chicago, IL
Occupation
EE
The reason this confuses me is I can run my laptop on battery and the problems are still entirely apparent. Maybe the metal chassis of my desktop helps to shield against the radiated interference?
Try using your laptop at various areas in your home to see if it gets worse or better in different places. Also go outdoors and see how far away it takes to eliminate the problem, and also if it matters which direction (e.g., N-S-E-W) you move from the house.
 

Sesh

Member
Location
United States
Occupation
agriculture
Try using your laptop at various areas in your home to see if it gets worse or better in different places. Also go outdoors and see how far away it takes to eliminate the problem, and also if it matters which direction (e.g., N-S-E-W) you move from the house.

Seems to change very slightly. If I go out to my garage (15 feet from house) the problem is basically still the same. By the way if I apply shielding to my laptop or desktop and any cables going to them, the mouse will become more responsive temporarily and there are less dropped inputs. The display becomes smoother for a time as well. This is super temporary. I have also tried grounding the shielding to my PSU screws with no luck either.

I could try walking down the block to see if it goes away entirely with laptop on battery.
 

kwired

Electron manager
Location
NE Nebraska
Does voltage ever drop enough the UPS takes over or at least beeps because it took over even if only for brief time?

Everything I am reading still says bad neutral or at least intermittently bad. What you don't know is if in your main panel, in your meter socket, at your service drop connection, or at some utility company connection anywhere between your service and the source transformer. If neighbor is on same transformer you both might be effected by same bad connection.

Best way to make this show itself is to load the system, but in an unbalanced fashion as in introduce high amount of 120 volt load to only one side of the 120/240 supply and then watch voltage as you load it.

If neighbor is on same transformer and the bad connection is in a common point ahead of both of you, his load balancing and your load balancing combine for an overall balance effect beyond whatever point is bad.

One other thing that maybe not too likely but not impossible - really long undersized utility conductors between utility transformer and your point of connection and/or undersized utility transformer for the load served. If you have several neighbors all on same transformer and it is undersized for the demand - you all will suffer voltage sags when loading is high but this will effect all loads not just line to neutral loads.
 
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