20 amp dedicated circuit for refrigerators (resi)

[drcampbell]

This has nothing to do with "bare minimum". There is no point to running a dedicated 20 amp circuit to an appliance that draws 6-8 amps. A dedicated 15 would be fine.

A 20-amp dedicated circuit might even be a bad idea. If there's something wrong with the fridge, or if it's a really, really old energy hog, nuisance trips might be a good thing -- a reminder/motivator to do something about it.

If I did residential work, I think I'd specify a 15-amp circuit with one receptacle for the fridge, plus
the kitchen lights, to make it more obvious that the breaker has tripped, and
any incidental little stuff, such as an exhaust fan, because the capacity is available.

 

[ritelec]

Why do electricians continue to waste money and resources by running a dedicated 20 amp circuit for refrigerators? Energy Star and modern advancements have rendered this practice completely unnecessary. A dedicated 15 is fine. For that matter, it could be on with the countertop 20 amp circuit and not be a problem.

yes... 8 dollars here 8 dollars there, it all adds up ???

 

[ritelec]

besides serving counter tops, as a sabc it could even continue to dining rooms, kitchen nooks etc.. if one was so compelled (sad they got rid of exterior receptacles)

 

[don_resqcapt19]

If I put the fridge on the SABC, I'll make sure it's not on the load side of the GFCI.

I combine DW and disposal on the same 20 amp circuit.

In some kitchens, you don't have a choice as to the refrigerator being GFCI protected or not. If mine was being done today, the refrigerator receptacle would have to be GFCI protected.

 

[peter d]

In some kitchens, you don't have a choice as to the refrigerator being GFCI protected or not. If mine was being done today, the refrigerator receptacle would have to be GFCI protected.

Gee thanks, I didn't know that. :roll:

I'm the exact opposite, I would not want it GFCI protected at all.

 

[don_resqcapt19]

Gee thanks, I didn't know that. :roll:

I'm the exact opposite, I would not want it GFCI protected at all.

Not everyone that reads these threads knows what the code requires, and your statement could mislead someone.

 

[peter d]

Not everyone that reads these threads knows what the code requires, and your statement could mislead someone.

I assume most electricians have a solid working knowledge of the 2014 now that we're 5 years in. I don't make postings to cater to the lowest common denominator.

 

[infinity]

Brand new fridge arrived this week. Directions said this:

Recommended Grounding Method
A 115 volt, 60 Hz, AC only 15- or 20-amp fused, grounded
electrical supply is required. It is recommended that a separate
circuit serving only your refrigerator and approved accessories be
provided. Use an outlet that cannot be turned off by a switch. Do
not use an extension cord.

 

[peter d]

Brand new fridge arrived this week. Directions said this:

"Fused" :roll:

I'm sure you installed a fuse, right? :happyno::lol:

 

[romex jockey]

In some kitchens, you don't have a choice as to the refrigerator being GFCI protected or not. If mine was being done today, the refrigerator receptacle would have to be GFCI protected.

The last resturauant was purposely designed to have 'kitchen' divided from non-kitchen , to accomodate gfci code

~RJ~

 

[don_resqcapt19]

I assume most electricians have a solid working knowledge of the 2014 now that we're 5 years in. I don't make postings to cater to the lowest common denominator.

I would never make an assumption like that based on comments and questions that are posted here and other code groups. Plus, there are always new people entering the trade.

 

[peter d]

I would never make an assumption like that based on comments and questions that are posted here and other code groups. Plus, there are always new people entering the trade.

Ok, I get it Don. You have an axe to grind with me for whatever reason. That's fine.

There are countless unqualified statements made on this forum every day that are understood by electricians who know the NEC and don't need further explanation. So if you're going to hold me to that standard, you have your work cut out for you to police everything said here. I'm not going to start qualifying everything I say to accommodate people who are ignorant of the NEC. You'll notice I've been on this forum for 16 years now. Furthermore, last I checked "I read it on a code forum" isn't going to cut it with an inspector either.

 

[don_resqcapt19]

Ok, I get it Don. You have an axe to grind with me for whatever reason. That's fine.

There are countless unqualified statements made on this forum every day that are understood by electricians who know the NEC and don't need further explanation. So if you're going to hold me to that standard, you have your work cut out for you to police everything said here. I'm not going to start qualifying everything I say to accommodate people who are ignorant of the NEC. You'll notice I've been on this forum for 16 years now. Furthermore, last I checked "I read it on a code forum" isn't going to cut it with an inspector either.

It port of the moderators job to limit the misinformation that is provided on this forum. This and similar forums are used by my in place of formal training. I have not noticed you have been on this forum for 16 years because I never look at information like that as it has no value to me.

 

[peter d]

It port of the moderators job to limit the misinformation that is provided on this forum. This and similar forums are used by my in place of formal training. I have not noticed you have been on this forum for 16 years because I never look at information like that as it has no value to me.

Nothing I said was misinformation or was meant to deliberately mislead.

 

[don_resqcapt19]

Nothing I said was misinformation or was meant to deliberately mislead.

Ok.

 

[kwired]

This has nothing to do with "bare minimum". There is no point to running a dedicated 20 amp circuit to an appliance that draws 6-8 amps. A dedicated 15 would be fine.

Putting it on with some counter top outlets is fine also. One can still choose to run an individual outlet circuit, can choose to run individual circuit to every kitchen outlet if they want to.

A 20-amp dedicated circuit might even be a bad idea. If there's something wrong with the fridge, or if it's a really, really old energy hog, nuisance trips might be a good thing -- a reminder/motivator to do something about it.

If I did residential work, I think I'd specify a 15-amp circuit with one receptacle for the fridge, plus
the kitchen lights, to make it more obvious that the breaker has tripped, and
any incidental little stuff, such as an exhaust fan, because the capacity is available.

Even old energy hogs don't usually draw all that high of current, but they run a lot and it adds up on the kW hrs. Only nuisance trip you may get (on non GFCI/AFCI issues anyway) is if there is other outlets and other loads are contributing to the nuisance tripping.

No other outlets permitted on this circuit, unless it is a 20 amp circuit - then only other outlets permitted are SABC outlets, which does not include lighting or fixed appliances.

 

[mbrooke]

Why do electricians continue to waste money and resources by running a dedicated 20 amp circuit for refrigerators? Energy Star and modern advancements have rendered this practice completely unnecessary. A dedicated 15 is fine. For that matter, it could be on with the countertop 20 amp circuit and not be a problem.

You've seen my work?

 

[mlnk]

Per California CBC 2016, refrigeration equipment in residential does not need to be on GFCI. But is required to be AFCI protected. So if you are running a separate circuit for the refrigerator you will need to shell out for an additional AFCI breaker. Or you could have the refrig outlet be the first outlet on the SABC and have it not GFCI protected by adding the GFCI at the second outlet.
If customer wants a refrig or freezer in the garage, it is easy to run a separate circuit to a single outlet. Garage is not required to have AFCI.

 

[mwm1752]

NEC does not require 20 amp circuit or dedicated circuit some times the installation instruction made guide that though -- how many know which frig is installed at rough in? but working on high end residential with a bid that included the circuit was not a waste as I made $ doing it, I also quit using 14-2 and cutting any corners that could bite me later as you will never know what some people will put in their homes. So it was a personal choice to be cautious with install & plan for any anomally that may occur. BTW several time the extra effort saved me from circuitry disaster when the chandelier arrived or a wet bar was added.

 

[kwired]

NEC does not require 20 amp circuit or dedicated circuit some times the installation instruction made guide that though -- how many know which frig is installed at rough in? but working on high end residential with a bid that included the circuit was not a waste as I made $ doing it, I also quit using 14-2 and cutting any corners that could bite me later as you will never know what some people will put in their homes. So it was a personal choice to be cautious with install & plan for any anomally that may occur. BTW several time the extra effort saved me from circuitry disaster when the chandelier arrived or a wet bar was added.

I run 8-3 to wall ovens and cook tops when I don't know exactly will be installed, unless maybe it is possible to hold off until the appliance arrives in some instances. Often find out it could have been 10 AWG or even just two wire with ground.