Ok so I got on here thinking people would actually help here. All the basics have been checked and verified. Motor is hooked up. Motor has been ohmed and checked for any leg grounded and it is good. All safety switches are working and it turns on like it is supposed to but does not send voltage out from the drive. Voltage is being checked with a fluke 87V. Pretty sure that meter is pretty accurate. If you don't know the answer or have never seen a situation like this then why even respond. I have been doing industrial electrical work for over 20 years and this is the first time I ran across an issue like this. Was just hoping someone would actually be helpful with real answers.
What is the voltage (phase to phase, true RMS) at the drive terminals (U, V, W)? If not zero then the motor is not connected to the drive.
Do you have DC bus voltage? Seems likely since the display is up but test between whichever terminals are labeled + and - for both DC and AC. DC should be around 145% of the line AC voltage. AC should be under 10 V. This proves you have DC power (rectifier is working).
Does the drive have an enable or safe off function? If so and it is “off” some of these electrically kill power to the thyristor. Check very closely because some of these are independent of the run command.
And as stated it sounds like a command problem or a control signal issue. Make sure you have settings saved. Pull terminal strips or disconnect control wiring. Factory default the drive then do a quick config (minimal) for keypad only control, no IO. Try to start/run the motor. If it doesn’t drive or hardware is defective. If it runs then it’s a configuration problem. I usually try to enable configuration one step at a time and test each signal as I go.
I can’t remember on ABB but on AB they have a software/hardware enable dip switch. In hardware enable you must have a jumper or relay on the right pins. In software mode this can be disabled and often is. So if you switched drives it might be a dip switch issue. Also there xare sometimes jumpers for internal/external 24 VDC and current sourcing/sinking. Make sure all jumpers and dip switches are identical. Go into the IO settings menus and check what each input should do then the monitoñr menu and check what inputs are seen.
Another one that messed me up recently is some LSIS brand drives expected a NC input for a remote reset button. Because of that you must have either a jumper or NC push button. Same with stop inputs. Also many drives have a “safe on” function where if the drive powers you with a run command on, it ignores it until it sees an off to on transition.
Lots of ways this can happen and not just a bad drive.
