Rough-in Box Brackets, level 5 finish

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Greenboy

Member
Location
Seattle, WA
Has anyone experience GC not wanting screws on the face of the studs, for the reason of bulging drywall? The GC is trying to achieve level 5 finish. It is written in the spec that brackets shall be fastened to the inside of the framing stud.

Are there such brackets?
 

infinity

Moderator
Staff member
Location
New Jersey
Occupation
Journeyman Electrician
We've done many level 5 finishes on condos and that was never a requirement. What is the carpenter using to screw the studs together with?
 

Greenboy

Member
Location
Seattle, WA
We've done many level 5 finishes on condos and that was never a requirement. What is the carpenter using to screw the studs together with?

That is our argument as well. Their response is that the screws are at the top and bottom track. So it is less visible in those areas. Plus trim finish will cover up the bottom. It is a BS requirement, and should not be our issue.
 

infinity

Moderator
Staff member
Location
New Jersey
Occupation
Journeyman Electrician
I can't think of any mounting bar or bracket that is designed to mount to the inside of the stud. Guess that you'll have to spot weld the brackets to the studs. :rolleyes:
 

Bluegrass Boy

Senior Member
Location
Texas
Occupation
Commercial/ Industrial/ Maintenance Electrician
You could use this style of Caddy Bracket . Use tin snips and cut off excess or bend the tabs opposite direction. It’s been a while, but IIRC, the slotted lines on the tabs are bend points based on box depth when mounting to stud surface. So you could cut excess, and bring cut point out even to stud surface for correct depth, or fold tabs backwards and screw from behind. 6B2B7870-EB39-4EFA-84C9-2FB0803640AF.jpeg
 
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growler

Senior Member
Location
Atlanta,GA
It is written in the spec that brackets shall be fastened to the inside of the framing stud.
If something like this is included in the job specifications then it can be enforced.
It's up to the sub contractor to read these specs before bidding the job.
 

Todd0x1

Senior Member
Location
CA
Exactly. What's wrong with them?

-Hal

On a steel stud pushing in on the box causes the stud to twist. Every commercial job ive seen only uses various caddy brackets and never bracket type 4S boxes. Maybe its a regional thing...
 

Coppersmith

Senior Member
Location
Tampa, FL, USA
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
Level 5 finish is almost always in commercial work. And if bowing is a concern, wood studs ain't the way to go
I have a level 5 finish in one of my bathrooms. The walls were skim coated after wallpaper was removed because the wallpaper was applied to unfinished drywall and tore it up upon removal.
 

James L

Senior Member
Location
Kansas Cty, Mo, USA
Occupation
Electrician
I have a level 5 finish in one of my bathrooms. The walls were skim coated after wallpaper was removed because the wallpaper was applied to unfinished drywall and tore it up upon removal.
Sure thing. Occasionally someone will do that under special circumstances. But to have job specs for level 5 finish is almost always gonna be commercial work and metal studs. Like 999 times out of a thousand.

And a skim coat with a sanding party 😁 is how a level 5 finish is achieved.

Back in 2007 I worked 4 months on a regional council building, painting. I ran an airless rug to spray ductwork and sprinkler pipes, and a lot if rolling, too.

At the end of our part, we had some accent walls that were sprayed with a delicate application called "Scuff Master" (why that name on delicate paint 🤷‍♂️)

Anyway, those accent walls were the only walls spec'd to level 5 finish.

I've seen other times that certain office or corridor walls are spec'd to level 5 when they are perpendicular to windows.
 

hbiss

EC, Westchester, New York NEC: 2014
Location
Hawthorne, New York NEC: 2014
Occupation
EC
Level 5 is not uncommon in high end houses around here.

On a steel stud pushing in on the box causes the stud to twist. Every commercial job ive seen only uses various caddy brackets and never bracket type 4S boxes. Maybe its a regional thing...

Well, if the stud is sandwiched between two sides of 5/8 sheetrock that is adequately screwed I don't see it moving anywhere. Caddy brackets make installation easier and support the box with a "foot" from the opposite side sheetrock keeping the box from pushing in where the problem really is. This is really what the OP should be using but they still require screws on the face of the stud. Caddy does have low profile pan head screws for this.

I fail to see why this is an issue. A properly skim coated wall should cover any imperfection. I think the problem really is with the tapers and finishers he has not doing a good job.

-Hal
 
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