charlie
Senior Member
- Location
- Indianapolis
Re: Range outlet
You are more than welcome.
You are more than welcome.
Range outlet
- Thread starter dmp66
- Start date
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charlie
Senior Member
- Location
- Indianapolis
Re: Range outlet
Yes, check out 250-22 to get started.
Yes, check out 250-22 to get started.
physis
Senior Member
Re: Range outlet
I apologize Charlie, I'm being slightly sarcastic (not completely though). I contend that sometimes grounding actually increases the potential for a hazard to exist. Something isn't automaticly safer because it's grounded. It seems though that there's a lot of resistance to that notion.
I apologize Charlie, I'm being slightly sarcastic (not completely though). I contend that sometimes grounding actually increases the potential for a hazard to exist. Something isn't automaticly safer because it's grounded. It seems though that there's a lot of resistance to that notion.
charlie
Senior Member
- Location
- Indianapolis
Re: Range outlet
I agree with you Sam and don't worry about a bit of sarcasm, we all do it at times. Besides, I have a thick skin (most of the time).
I agree with you Sam and don't worry about a bit of sarcasm, we all do it at times. Besides, I have a thick skin (most of the time).
Re: Range outlet
First I would like to thank all who helped me with my original question concerning ground impedance tester. Unfortunately the customer does not want to shut down the system and, hence, I cannot use the Fall-of-Potential method. I'd have to use a clamp-on meter. Easy, but I do understand the short-comings.
Now about plug/receptacle for the range/dryer.
I would like to bring your attention to one simple fact that everyone missed so far. The three-prong cable come in one color - gray. All wires are colored gray and one may not know that MIDDLE wire (the cable is flat) is always neutral. Outside wires are L1 and L2. It doesn't matter where you connect L1 or L2 as long as it is NOT to the middle screw on the range's terminal block. No doubt that it is better to change range outlet from 3- to 4-prong. But if you cannot, you can bond neutral the frame of your range. With that said it is outmost important to have all connections tight to prevent any potential loose screws to prevent any arcing.
I don't see the point made by hbiss how the loose neutral can put 120v on the frame. Loose power (L1 or L2) connection can. But in this case the circuit breaker should trip.
I personally have seen the terminal block fried. But this cased by poor connection of the terminal causing continuos arcing and creating a hot spot.
Regards,
Boris Zaretsky
First I would like to thank all who helped me with my original question concerning ground impedance tester. Unfortunately the customer does not want to shut down the system and, hence, I cannot use the Fall-of-Potential method. I'd have to use a clamp-on meter. Easy, but I do understand the short-comings.
Now about plug/receptacle for the range/dryer.
I would like to bring your attention to one simple fact that everyone missed so far. The three-prong cable come in one color - gray. All wires are colored gray and one may not know that MIDDLE wire (the cable is flat) is always neutral. Outside wires are L1 and L2. It doesn't matter where you connect L1 or L2 as long as it is NOT to the middle screw on the range's terminal block. No doubt that it is better to change range outlet from 3- to 4-prong. But if you cannot, you can bond neutral the frame of your range. With that said it is outmost important to have all connections tight to prevent any potential loose screws to prevent any arcing.
I don't see the point made by hbiss how the loose neutral can put 120v on the frame. Loose power (L1 or L2) connection can. But in this case the circuit breaker should trip.
I personally have seen the terminal block fried. But this cased by poor connection of the terminal causing continuos arcing and creating a hot spot.
Regards,
Boris Zaretsky
charlie
Senior Member
- Location
- Indianapolis
Re: Range outlet
400.22 covers the way the grounded conductor is marked in a cord.
400.22 covers the way the grounded conductor is marked in a cord.
Re: Range outlet
To All,
For those of us who studied AC Circuits, Transformers, Motors, etc., 50 years ago, but found our way into microelectronics, the NEC is a deep, dark, mystery. We usually muddle through though, and with advice from our peers, usually get it right. So far that is!
To All,
For those of us who studied AC Circuits, Transformers, Motors, etc., 50 years ago, but found our way into microelectronics, the NEC is a deep, dark, mystery. We usually muddle through though, and with advice from our peers, usually get it right. So far that is!
physis
Senior Member
Re: Range outlet
Rattus, I can say this:
I considered myself to be sheer genious in the field I come from. Until I encountered "The NEC". And then the near twenty years of my past life became almost worthless and void. It's not easy to start completely over. And I hated the NEC for it's role in my having to start over from scratch. But if it matters to you you'll buck up and do it and the sooner you start the better. If that's the route you decide to take.
You probably wont find anyone who agrees with you more than I do about IC's and micocircuits and OP amps and TTL and CMOS and TO-3 high current packages and 4066's and Galium Arsnide blue LED's. I can read resister color codes blind folded. But there are no more jobs for that. We both know the money's gone from there.
My advice is to make a dicision and act. There's always time to wish it were better in between.
I'll always miss that stuff, but it will probably never pay the bills again. And it is sad!
[ November 26, 2004, 04:07 AM: Message edited by: physis ]
Rattus, I can say this:
I considered myself to be sheer genious in the field I come from. Until I encountered "The NEC". And then the near twenty years of my past life became almost worthless and void. It's not easy to start completely over. And I hated the NEC for it's role in my having to start over from scratch. But if it matters to you you'll buck up and do it and the sooner you start the better. If that's the route you decide to take.
You probably wont find anyone who agrees with you more than I do about IC's and micocircuits and OP amps and TTL and CMOS and TO-3 high current packages and 4066's and Galium Arsnide blue LED's. I can read resister color codes blind folded. But there are no more jobs for that. We both know the money's gone from there.
My advice is to make a dicision and act. There's always time to wish it were better in between.
I'll always miss that stuff, but it will probably never pay the bills again. And it is sad!
[ November 26, 2004, 04:07 AM: Message edited by: physis ]
charlie
Senior Member
- Location
- Indianapolis
Re: Range outlet
You guys are pups. I learned how vacuum tubes worked, triodes, pentodes, gas filled, tank circuits, etc. I was told to not worry about the solid state devices since they can't handle any real power, you will never be involved with them. My pocket calculator was a slide rule and my organizer was a desk top calendar with tear off pages. My computer was a pad of paper, pencil, and slide rule (sometimes, it was a very good computer but it was slow).
You guys are pups. I learned how vacuum tubes worked, triodes, pentodes, gas filled, tank circuits, etc. I was told to not worry about the solid state devices since they can't handle any real power, you will never be involved with them. My pocket calculator was a slide rule and my organizer was a desk top calendar with tear off pages. My computer was a pad of paper, pencil, and slide rule (sometimes, it was a very good computer but it was slow).
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