Metal rework box

[nizak]

Hubbel/Raco sells a single gang metal rework box with expandable "ears" on the sides which are pulled out be a screw on the outside of the box. I believe it's part #506.

Using the cut out template you end up with an opening that is approximately 1/4" wider on each side, this allows for the screw mechanism.

A mid size cover will cover the opening but it's a code violation to have that much open space around the box.
Any suggestions on dealing with the void?

Seems odd that one would have to patch drywall when using a product that's intended for rework.

Anybody ever use these?

 

[480sparky]

Dallop in a bit of drywall joint compound.

That, or just use metal boxes without the mounting system you describe and use F-straps.

 

[Dennis Alwon]

I agree that it is wacky that you would need to cut in a box then mud it in. Is that a 1/4" on each side? If not then 1/8" is acceptable

 

[Knuckle Dragger]

I have never used that particular model.
I usually place the face of the box against the wall, trace it out with a sharp pencil and cut out against the inside of the line especially if I were dealing with horse hair plaster.
I also typically patch around the box with joint compound/ plaster weather the plate covers it or not it helps hold the box in place and cuts down plaster dust and drafts.

 

[hbiss]

I place the face of the box against the wall and trace it out as well as around the ears. With my sheetrock saw, I cut on the inside of the line so the box is a tight fit. Then I notch out where the ears are and slightly more where the wings are so the box will slide in. I find that if you don't provide a tight fit the box can loosen up and move in the hole.

This type of box is much more secure than using steamboats or F- straps.

-Hal

 

[AC\DC]

What about the Raco #508. I have used both and I destroy less Sheetrock with this one.

 

[LarryFine]

I place the face of the box against the wall and trace it out as well as around the ears. With my sheetrock saw, I cut on the inside of the line so the box is a tight fit. Then I notch out where the ears are and slightly more where the wings are so the box will slide in. I find that if you don't provide a tight fit the box can loosen up and move in the hole.

What he said.

This type of box is much more secure than using steamboats or F- straps.

I can get them pretty tight. My first "secret" is to adjust the box ears so the back surface of the ears is on the same plane as the front edge of the box, so the box will not protrude from the wall at all.

Then, I insert the box and the first box support (F-strap), push that side of the box tightly into the wall with the nose of my pliers, pull the support tight to the wall, and fold the strips inside the box.

Next I push the second side of the box in harder, pull the second box support harder, and fold the strips in again. There should be no movement at this point if you got everything tight as described.

Last step is to pinch the strips into full-180-degree folds around the front edges of the box. which firms up the support a little more and makes sure the strips won't touch the device terminals.

 

[480sparky]

What he said.


I can get them pretty tight. My first "secret" is to adjust the box ears so the back surface of the ears is on the same plane as the front edge of the box, so the box will not protrude from the wall at all.

Then, I insert the box and the first box support (F-strap), push that side of the box tightly into the wall with the nose of my pliers, pull the support tight to the wall, and fold the strips inside the box.

Next I push the second side of the box in harder, pull the second box support harder, and fold the strips in again. There should be no movement at this point if you got everything tight as described.

Last step is to pinch the strips into full-180-degree folds around the front edges of the box. which firms up the support a little more and makes sure the strips won't touch the device terminals.

I do the same thing, I just use a 6" screwdriver to push the box ears against the wall. When I fold over the first strap, the edge of the box is tilted into the wall a bit. So when I push in on the other side of the box, the ears push the first edge out and puts a bit of stress on the strap.

Never had a problem with it. I've been back to boxes I installed 20 years ago and they're still tight as a nail-on.

 

[LarryFine]

When I fold over the first strap, the edge of the box is tilted into the wall a bit. So when I push in on the other side of the box, the ears push the first edge out and puts a bit of stress on the strap.

Exactamundo!

 

[mopowr steve]

The OP seemed to indicate that the box had a 1/4” gap from the side of box to drywall cut-out because of the tab mechanism. I think he is confusing the 1/4” rule that pertains to how far back the front of a box is allowed to be from a non-combustible surface (or must be flush if combustible surface). AFAIK there is no stipulation to what he is describing. Other than execution of work if the plate doesn’t cover the opening.

 

[tom baker]

This type of box is much more secure than using steamboats or F- straps.

-Hal

Interesting we call them battleships. And I agreee, I prefer molded boxes with the U Clamp on the back. For lath/plaster I use the plaster ears on the box, with SPAX screws, but first counter sink the holes for the SPAX screws (self tapping small FH screws). And then I caullk around the box opening/

 

[480sparky]

Battleships. F straps. Madison bars. Fingers. Box supports. Two men in a canoe. Jiffy clips. Elephant ears.

 

[hbiss]

Last step is to pinch the strips into full-180-degree folds around the front edges of the box. which firms up the support a little more and makes sure the strips won't touch the device terminals.

I do that by squeezing the folds around the box side with my linesmans. Strips lie flat against the inside of the box.

Battleships. F straps. Madison bars. Fingers. Box supports. Two men in a canoe.

Yup. All of the above!

-Hal

 

[LarryFine]

I do that by squeezing the folds around the box side with my linesmans. Strips lie flat against the inside of the box.

Yes. I meant to include "with my pliers" in my statement.

 

[electrofelon]

Battleships. F straps. Madison bars. Fingers. Box supports. Two men in a canoe. Jiffy clips. Elephant ears.

.....hold its

 

[Knuckle Dragger]

We call em Mad bars.

Interesting we call them battleships. And I agreee, I prefer molded boxes with the U Clamp on the back. For lath/plaster I use the plaster ears on the box, with SPAX screws, but first counter sink the holes for the SPAX screws (self tapping small FH screws). And then I caullk around the box opening/

We all have our own favorites.
I prefer the P&S s122w & s118w

 

[jimport]

Cut tight to the box and notch around the clip on the side.

 

[Little Bill]

Cut tight to the box and notch around the clip on the side.

This

 

[Dennis Alwon]

Whatever you call them this is what they look like. We use them only when we must use a metal box.

 

[Srv52761]

If you can use a pvc box, this one from Arlington Industries, model F101, can be placed and screwed onto the stud in a manner similar to a pocket screw