Fuse federal Pacific safe?

[brycenesbitt]

Hey I know this thread is years old. But for any future searchers:
Eaton makes a insert retrofit panel kit that can save a lot of labor in such situations, perfectly suited to FPE panels.
RTBR8L100P is one model. You basically call Eaton’s Residential Flex Center at 1-800-330-6479 with your panel dimensions,
and they hook ya up.

 

[brycenesbitt]

Knob and Tube I consider quite safe. The wires are separated, and generally soldered.
There are insulation problems at some metal junction boxes. And... the real problem.... bad extensions of the original system.

The heat thing is a myth: the copper wire has the same rating as modern wire.
The neutrals can be a pain to follow. Just inspect his K&T and be happy.

 

[LarryFine]

Hey I know this thread is years old. But for any future searchers:
Eaton makes a insert retrofit panel kit that can save a lot of labor in such situations, perfectly suited to FPE panels.

Excellent find.
https://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@electrical/documents/content/sa00406001e.pdf

 

[hbiss]

Usually with K&T comes a whole bunch of other problems. Lack of receptacles and existing ones replaced with grounding devices. Extra receptacles and lights hacked with Romex by the HO or some handyman. And the one that bothers me the most is K&T in insulated walls. That can lead to overheating and be dangerous.

The heat thing is a myth: the copper wire has the same rating as modern wire.

True but consider one receptacle in a room which was common back then, maybe two circuits and today's loads. Window A/Cs and electric heaters in the winter among others. Those old houses aren't going to have A/C and are cold in the winter.

Blown-in, foamed-in, or rolled insulation prevents the dissipation of heat into the free air space, resulting in higher conductor temperature, which could cause insulation breakdown and possible ignition of the insulation. Section 394.12 prohibits installation of knob-and-tube wiring in hollow spaces that have been weatherized.

Insurance companies won't insure buildings with fuses and K&T wiring.

-Hal

 

[Eddie702]

If it was me I would come off the existing subfeed lugs to a breaker and feed the dryer. Open a can of worms with a new panel

The question to ask is has he ever had to replace the main fuses......probably not.

I had a job in a house old lady wanted a garage door opener. Her husband had passed and she struggled to get the car out. She had a 30amp 120 volt service. Washer (no dryer) refrigerator 1 small window ac unit. Never had a single problem.

I suggested without scarring her that she change the service. She called me 6 months later and said her son thought it was a good idea

 

[brycenesbitt]

Usually with K&T comes a whole bunch of other problems.

Agreed, but it's generally NOT the original K&T.
Sometimes it's plumbing though, with pipes touching both hot & neutral.

And the one that bothers me the most is K&T in insulated walls. That can lead to overheating and be dangerous.

I disagree. In four western states, insulating over K&T is legal if first inspected, and a sign getting placed in the access point if any.
But why would anyone think it's dangerous?

If the K&T wire is 12 gauge, and the breaker is 20 AMP, then the amount of heat rise in the K&T will be less than the equivalent modern wire, where the conductors run bundled together. The risk of a nail creating a hot spot is far less with K&T. The K&T uses soldered connections, thus lower resistance than modern wire nuts. Where's the heat risk? Do you have any references to an actual overheating situation in an inspected K&T system with the right protection device installed?

And the one that bothers me the most is K&T in insulated walls. That can lead to overheating
Insurance companies won't insure buildings with fuses and K&T wiring.

Right, but remove the fuses which ARE dangerous, an the K&T fades as an issue for many insurance companies.
Just about every fuse building I inspect has the wrong size fuses in the sockets... generally 30's on 12 or 14 gauge wire . That's not the fault of the K&T, that's the fault of the design that used the same socket for all amperages.

 

[brycenesbitt]

True but consider one receptacle in a room which was common back then, maybe two circuits and today's loads. Window A/Cs and electric heaters in the winter among others. Those old houses aren't going to have A/C and are cold in the winter.

That's an electrical load issue.
Not a K&T issue.
Add additional modern circuits to spread out the load, make sure the K&T is on the right breaker size, done.

 

[ptonsparky]

My buddies don‘t get a break on installations. Charge whatever you want, but do it right.
We replace old main/range panels for customers that can’t afford the work often enough. AFCI/GFCI are dealt with as needed. As stated before, do some planning.