Bootleg grounds

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concord

Member
Hi Guys,

New home inspector with a question.Electricity is my weakness.
I'm having trouble understanding the dangers of "bootleg grounds". I understand *how* it is done(attaching a separate wire from the nuetral lug on an outlet to the ground lug when there is not a ground wire in the circuit)but not the consequenses. Would anybody be able to SLOWLY explain it to me with a few examples of different scenarios?

Thanks,
Concord

I appreciate your help
 

charlie b

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Lockport, IL
Occupation
Retired Electrical Engineer
Re: Bootleg grounds

One of the key differences between mechanical stuff and electrical stuff is that the electrical needs a complete path. You can fill a bucket with water, throw it on the floor, and leave it there, without ever having to put it back into the faucet. Not so with wires. Power that flows from the panel to a receptacle, and from there into the lamp that you plug into the receptacle, has to find its way back to the panel. If it has no path, then there will be no flow, and the light will not go bright.

But there is a twist to this concept. Electricity will take every available path back to its source. If some paths are of higher resistance than others, then most of the current will follow the lower resistance path. But some current will take the high resistance path, for no better reason than that the path exists. It?s like driving from one place to another. Most people would prefer to take the highway. But if there are alternate routes, and if all alternate routes are longer and slower than the highway, you would not expect there to be any drivers that would choose to take them. But current will take every available path.

The normal path goes from the panel, via the ?hot? wire (i.e., the black wire), to the receptacle, through the plug, up the lamp cord and into the bulb, back through the lamp cord to the plug and the receptacle, and back to the panel via the ?cold? wire (i.e., the white wire). Now suppose the lamp has a broken something or other inside, so that the hot wire touches the frame. Suppose further that you are touching the frame as well. The normal path of current still exists, and most of the current will continue to flow along that path. But now there is another path. Current can make its way back to the panel by traveling into your hand, through your body to your feet, into the floor, through the dirt under the house to the ground rod outside the panel, and back to the panel via the ?grounding electrode conductor.? You won?t enjoy that experience.

The purpose of the third prong is to give yet another path for current to flow, but only if there is a broken something or other like I describe above. The green wire (i.e., the one connected to the round part of the 3-prong plug) is connected to the frame. When the failure occurs, there are now three paths of current. Two I have already described. The third goes from the frame to the ground wire, into the third prong of the plug, and along a ground wire directly back to the panel. This is a low resistance path, so it will draw more current than your body will draw. It will, in fact, draw enough current to trip the protective circuit breaker, and thus terminate the event before you can be harmed. Please note that throughout the house, every frame of every piece of equipment, and anything that has a 3-prong plug, are all connected to each other via this system of ground wires.

All the above was background information. Now to directly answer your question. If you connect the neutral to the ground inside a single outlet, then you have connected that neutral to everything in the house that has a ground wire. That provides a fourth path of current, different than the three I?ve mentioned before. This path goes from the light bulb, back through the lamp cord to the plug and the receptacle, but now some current is diverted to the ground wire, and will make its way back to the panel via the each and every piece of equipment in the house. Even if you never have a piece of equipment break, you will always have this extra path. And if you touch a lamp, you could get a shock, even if that lamp were in a different room than the offending receptacle.
 

hurk27

Senior Member
Re: Bootleg grounds

Concord if there is a connection between the neutral and ground terminal on a receptacle. will cause the voltage drop of the neutral to be placed on the grounding of this receptacle. if a person was using lets say a metal case drill and the case of the drill is grounded through the ground prong then to the neutral. and he was drilling a metal that is grounded by another circuit. then this ether shorted out or just jambed the high current would place a high enough voltage between the drill case and the piece of metal that he's drilling. this is caused by the voltage drop in the neutral thats inavertly connected to the drills case.
 

hurk27

Senior Member
Re: Bootleg grounds

Sorry charlie We posted at the same time but I thing what hes talking about and what I refere that a bootleg ground is is when there is no grounding at a receptacle somone connects a jumper from the neutral to the ground terminal to cause the receptacle to show a ground when tested by a three lite tester.
 

hbiss

EC, Westchester, New York NEC: 2014
Location
Hawthorne, New York NEC: 2014
Occupation
EC
Re: Bootleg grounds

Because the neutral is a current carrying conductor. This means that there can be a voltage present on that one piece of wire if you were to measure it with a meter, one lead at the panel end and the other connected to the far load end. This is because of voltage drop. Since the wire has resistance, a current flow through it will result in the voltage at the end with the load to be less than at the beginning.

Now, consider that "at the beginning" which is the panel, the neutral wire is also connected to the cold water piping and everything considered to be "grounded" in the house. If you were to do our meter thing again you could attach one lead to the load end of the neutral as above but, since the piping of the house is also connected at the panel to the other end of the neutral, we could just as well connect the other meter lead to a water pipe, radiator, etc. and perform our measurement.

Now consider what would happen if the ground prong of a receptacle was connected to the neutral at the load end. Whatever appliance was plugged into that receptacle with 3 wire plug will have it's outside case connected to that end of the neutral. What would happen if you put one hand on that appliance and the other on the faucet? :eek:
 

concord

Member
Re: Bootleg grounds

Thanks for your replys guys!

One last question though: Why wouldn't you be shocked if you were using a drill plugged into a "bootlegged" 3 pronged outlet at all times?

It seems current would leave the breaker go through the outlet, the switch, motor windings and then return to the nuetral terminal on the receptacle correct? Since this nuetral on the receptacle is also bootlegged to the ground terminal, wouldn't current also flow through the drills equipment ground wire and energize the metal case?
 

monkey

Senior Member
Location
Arizona
Re: Bootleg grounds

I don't think you would feel a shock if the neutral is solidly connected at the panel because there would be no (or very little) difference of potential between the neutral and ground. However, if the neutral path becomes compromised for one reason or another, it might ruin your day.
Most of this I figured out in my shed with a large test board of circuits I have made up to see what happens with various wiring errors and faults. The rest I learned from Bennie :D
If I am wrong on this I welcome any input.
Brian........Still Learning
 

hbiss

EC, Westchester, New York NEC: 2014
Location
Hawthorne, New York NEC: 2014
Occupation
EC
Re: Bootleg grounds

The voltage drop and consequently the "shock potential" depends on the amount of current carried by the neutral. If a tool such as a drill is the only thing that is connected to this circuit then the few amps it draws may only result in a few volts of drop and that's probably not going to be felt. Consider an air conditioner or some other larger load, especially when it starts. The voltage drop could be considerable and if whatever you are holding onto is also on that same circuit there could be a problem.

Also consider the situation where the circuit is fed from a sub panel. In this case many neutrals from many circuits can combine to cause a voltage drop on the neutral conductor that feeds that panel from the main panel.
 

hurk27

Senior Member
Re: Bootleg grounds

By monkey: don't think you would feel a shock if the neutral is solidly connected at the panel because there would be no (or very little) difference of potential between the neutral and ground
One since there is no ground going back to the panel the neutral is the path. since the neutral is a current carrying conductor and it will have a voltage drop (unless it's a super conductor) it will have a voltage above the reference grounding at the main panel.

now think if you were in between this drill and a appliance that was fed from the main panel and this drill just happened to short out the voltage that would be placed on the receptacles ground and passed on the the drill case could be lethal.
 

pierre

Senior Member
Re: Bootleg grounds

Concord

If the drill case is metallic, and has a three prong cord connection, and the ground to neutral connection has been inadvertently made, there is potential for the person using the drill to receive a shock and suffer the consequences of that shock, depending on the resistance of the path that the current flows in. It has the potential of causing a mild shock or death to the person using that drill. Obviously a very dangerous situation!!!

This type of situation can also eventually lead to the start of a fire in the building when/if the conditions develop.

Pierre
 

concord

Member
Re: Bootleg grounds

Thanks for your help guys. One last thought:

When testing a 3 pronged outlet that is used on a 2 wire circuit that is run through conduit or BX I should show "correct" wiring on the tester because the outlet is grounded through the conduit or BX and back to the panel correct?

If Metal conduit or BX is used in a 2 wire system, why is it "Improper" to replace a bad 2 prong with a 3 pronged outlet? I still have grounding through the BX/Conduit correct?

I can see the problem if the circuit used 2 wire romex with plastic boxes but not if metal conduit or BX is used.

Stupid question maybe but help me out;-)

Concord
 
G

Guest

Guest
Re: Bootleg grounds

bxcable.jpg


On the left is old style BX cable. On the right is the newer AC type cable.

BX cannot be used as a ground, as it lacks a bonding "wire". AC has an internal bonding "wire". Neither one has an internal ground wire.

Type MC does have an internal ground wire.

You cannot put a 3-wire grounded receptacle on the old style BX. If there is a ground fault it will light up. The test light will show a proper ground, but it won't be NEC proper unless it contains the bonding wire or unless it contains a ground wire.

[ October 31, 2003, 06:04 PM: Message edited by: awwt ]
 

concord

Member
Re: Bootleg grounds

Wayne,

Your photo of old style BX shows 3 wires though. Isn't the 3rd the ground?

I just tested a three prong outlet in my home. My home has conduit. It tested "correct" yet there is not a separate ground wire going to the ground terminal of the outlet. The Conduit is making the ground. Are you saying this isn't a correct installation.

[ October 31, 2003, 06:44 PM: Message edited by: concord ]
 

iwire

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Massachusetts
Re: Bootleg grounds

The old looking cable is BX and it has no ground conductor.

That must be 12/3 or 14/3 White, Black and Red

In your house if it is truly conduit (pipe) it can be and still is used as a grounding conductor.

The old style BX as Wayne has said will read on your meter like a grounding conductor, however under the wrong circumstances it can heat up and glow like a toaster element instead of operating the over current device.
 

concord

Member
Re: Bootleg grounds

Sooooo. If conduit supplys a ground then why is it not proper to replace a 2 prong with a three prong? The circuit is grounded via conduit.

Why is it recommended to replace the 2 prong with a GFCI placarded "No equipment ground" if the circuit runs through conduit?

Thanks,
Concord
 

iwire

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Massachusetts
Re: Bootleg grounds

That is a great question, you are referring to

406.3(D)(3) Nongrounding-Type Receptacles. Where grounding means does not exist in the receptacle enclosure, the installation shall comply with (a), (b), or (c).

(a) A nongrounding-type receptacle(s) shall be permitted to be replaced with another nongrounding-type receptacle(s).

(b) A nongrounding-type receptacle(s) shall be permitted to be replaced with a ground-fault circuit interrupter-type of receptacle(s). These receptacles shall be marked ?No Equipment Ground.? An equipment grounding conductor shall not be connected from the ground-fault circuit-interrupter-type receptacle to any outlet supplied from the ground-fault circuit-interrupter receptacle.

(c) A nongrounding-type receptacle(s) shall be permitted to be replaced with a grounding-type receptacle(s) where supplied through a ground-fault circuit interrupter. Grounding-type receptacles supplied through the ground-fault circuit interrupter shall be marked ?GFCI Protected? and ?No Equipment Ground.? An equipment grounding conductor shall not be connected between the grounding-type receptacles.
The key to this is in the first sentence.

Where grounding means does not exist in the receptacle enclosure
If you have, EMT, threaded conduit, or type AC, you have a grounding means, even though you may not have a separate grounding conductor.

250.118 tells us what is an acceptable grounding conductor.

BX is not in the list and BX is not AC as described in 320.

Hope this helps.
 

pierre

Senior Member
Re: Bootleg grounds

Concord
If you reread the answers again, you will see they are well written, but to the inexperienced, you may have a little trouble understanding them.
AC cable (which most people still call BX) has a bare conductor run within the armour to help in the return ground path and makes the AC cable capable of using the armour as an 'equipment ground conductor'.

The picture that Wayne has posted is good to show this bare conductor in the cable. If/when you are inspecting and looking for this bare wire, sometimes it is difficult to see, as it may have broken off at the end where the 'redhead'/antishort bushing is installed.

The problem arises when one is using a tester to test for ground and it reads ground. The armour of old BX will have continuity, but may not be good enough for the fault current to open the overcurrent device, and has been seen to heat up red hot as in a toaster element.

When you are inspecting older homes, maybe you can buddy up with an electrician for help until you learn how to identify this type of situation.

Pierre
 

iwire

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Massachusetts
Re: Bootleg grounds

I think it is safe to say that if the conductors are cloth covered as the one in awwts picture are that you have BX.

I have never seen cloth covered conductors with the bonding strip.

So Concorde if you have armored cable with cloth covered conductors you have no grounding means and need to stay with 2 wire outlets of 3 wire outlets with GFCI protection.

Why is it recommended to replace the 2 prong with a GFCI
I do not see that the NEC recommends this, just allows it, it also allows using a 2 wire replacement at locations without grounding means.

It would be the installers choice, my choice would have been for the GFCI, but after Don R pointed this out to me I would say use 2 wire replacements.

250.114 Equipment Connected by Cord and Plug.
Under any of the conditions described in (1) through (4), exposed non?current-carrying metal parts of cord-and-plug-connected equipment likely to become energized shall be grounded.

Exception: Listed tools, listed appliances, and listed equipment covered in (2) through (4) shall not be required to be grounded where protected by a system of double insulation or its equivalent. Double insulated equipment shall be distinctively marked.

(3)In residential occupancies:

a.Refrigerators, freezers, and air conditioners

b.Clothes-washing, clothes-drying, dish-washing machines; kitchen waste disposers; information technology equipment; sump pumps and electrical aquarium equipment

c.Hand-held motor-operated tools, stationary and fixed motor-operated tools, light industrial motor-operated tools

d.Motor-operated appliances of the following types: hedge clippers, lawn mowers, snow blowers, and wet scrubbers

e.Portable handlamps
So while we are allowed to put a 3 wire GFCI protected outlet in as a replacement, the homeowner can not plug in anything that needs grounding :roll:

As the homeowner will not be aware of this (even with the No equipment ground label) or even care, the only responsible thing to do IMO is use a two wire replacement to prevent or at least inhibit the homeowner in plugging in things that need grounding.

You may still want to provide GFCI protection on this circuit as a kind of belt and suspenders approach.
 

tonyi

Senior Member
Re: Bootleg grounds

Originally posted by iwire:
As the homeowner will not be aware of this (even with the No equipment ground label) or even care, the only responsible thing to do IMO is use a two wire replacement to prevent or at least inhibit the homeowner in plugging in things that need grounding.
Not having a valid EG (from a branch POV) doesn't necessarily mean that armor might not be useful as a gnd reference voltage for some electronic device. There WILL in fact be a defacto connection to the armor via the receptical's backstrap and mounting screws. These electronic gadgets don't ask much of this connection, else they'd be tripping ordinary grounded GFCI's as well as these nominally "ungrounded" ones.

2-wire NM or K&T is obviously a completely different story...

An EG is a fault path and needs some measure of current carrying capacity which the old BX can't do, but a reference gnds needs are considerably less demanding.

I think the answer is more like, if your connectors are tight and the armor integrity is OK, 3-prong electronics may indeed work OK on older BX systems when fitted with GFCI even though that gnd prong isn't any good for carrying fault current.
 

iwire

Moderator
Staff member
Location
Massachusetts
Re: Bootleg grounds

Tony.

BX is not listed in 250.118 as a grounding means and 250.114(3) specifically says information technology equipment must have a grounding means.

How does the homeowner know which 3 wire plug is a "reference ground" and which 3 wire outlet is a equipment ground or even know what the difference would be.

If the NEC even talked about a reference ground on a branch circuit.

Your a trip Tony, a little voltage drop and you think the world is ending, you think the NEC is 20 to 30 years behind, some paint on the face of an outlet and you say a violation that must be corrected, but no equipment ground at a 3 wire outlet is OK. :roll:
 
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