Best hole cutters for metal enclosures?

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JoeNorm

Senior Member
Location
WA
I am specifically referring to the drill-type hole cutters. Often carbide tipped but not always and sized for electrical work. Hougan offers them in high speed steel. Any brands that people swear by? Greenlee seems to be the most popular judging by a google search.

Thanks
 

Besoeker3

Senior Member
Location
UK
Occupation
Retired Electrical Engineer
For just a hole or two, I'll use a Lenox VB12. Past that, the hydraulics come out.
I agree. A couple of holes for indicator lamps (22mm in our case) is one thing. A new panel meter or two (100mm * 100mm) is another matter.
 

drcampbell

Senior Member
Location
The Motor City, Michigan USA
Occupation
Registered Professional Engineer
The material's not as important as the technique.
Use cutting oil, turn it slowly and clamp a piece of lumber to the back. (both to prevent breakout and to damp vibration & chatter)
 

retirede

Senior Member
Location
Illinois
The material's not as important as the technique.
Use cutting oil, turn it slowly and clamp a piece of lumber to the back. (both to prevent breakout and to damp vibration & chatter)

Clamping a piece of lumber to the back side also allows you to use a hole saw to cut an larger hole where an existing smaller hole already exists!
 

LarryFine

Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
Location
Henrico County, VA
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
Clamping a piece of lumber to the back side also allows you to use a hole saw to cut an larger hole where an existing smaller hole already exists!
So does putting the existing-size cup inside the new-size cup.

Or, if that won't work, attach a piece of material that will keep the pilot bit in place.
 

Marshmo

Member
Location
OK, USA
Occupation
Electrical Contractor
The pilot bit seems to break pretty easy and only the greenlee one will fit in the arbor.

Other than that, it's been a good set.
 

Hv&Lv

Senior Member
Location
-
Occupation
Engineer/Technician
I’ve got to the point I will drill the pilot hole, then change the whole thing and use my hole saw with the old bit just to hold it in place
 

MTW

Senior Member
Location
SE Michigan
I've been using Blair holecutters for 30 years with good success. Hougen is a sister company in the same location and market similar products to different trade markets. HSS is the models I normally use. Carbide tipped is not usually necessary, if kept lubed and the proper speed and feed.
I have them from 1/4" to 2 1/2" OD. They last for many years with the proper care and use.

Made in Michigan, quality tools.
https://hougen.com/cutters/cutters_index.html
https://www.blairequipment.com/
 
Spent some time apprenticing in a machine shop before becoming an electrician. I was shown to read the chips or shavings to determine pressure and speed when drilling metal.
Straw color or gold is the the most change in color you should see!
Blue is burnt and dulling bits
Useful tricks for apprentices or others that are borrowing my bits on the job are
using clutch on drill,
using a washer over pilot bit to stop the hole saw from biting that first penetration.

Rapid tap is a great lube and cutting fluid for larger diameter or thicker metals.
Carbide is reserved for stainless or other hard materials that High speed steel would be inefficient to use.
I’ve had one Lenox kit for most my career and one greenlee carbide for special metals.
7-8 years on everything but 7/8” and 1 1/8”
My biggest surprise to date was drilling efface (styrofoam with topcoat applied) ground teeth of saw in two revolutions!

Masonry requires diamonds without it heats up bit and takes away temper(hardness)




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