Any RV wizards around here? Dealing with bonding/grounding an AC inverter

[fastline]

This is getting a bit outside my lane and not entirely sure who to even discuss this with. Basically got involved to help install an AC inverter unit in an RV that does not currently have one. For those not in the know, it is common to have a way to make AC power off a battery bank in an RV when not on a generator/grid.

I scoped out the wiring and appears the battery negative is grounded to chassis as most auto DC systems are I guess. Then the AC side in he RV is grounded to chassis as well and I 'think' the neutral is bonded but I need to check more on that.

What I have concern with is the inverter. I am not sure if these are cool with having the negative DC side at the same potential as the AC ground side.

Some people rig up a system where they just install a couple dedicated "inverter receptacles" but the intent here is to run a transfer switch and distribute the inverter power throughout the same circuits that are already in the RV.

Just wondering if anyone has any 'magic smoke stories' or good advice here? The information on this inverter is FAR from helpful.

 

[fastline]

Edit, with some pics I have, I was able to confirm the AC side is not bonded in the main panel. However, there is another, magic, neutral terminal block that is just screwed down to the floor behind the actual junction box. It is factory! What has me confused here is the negative from the battery charger unit goes to that neutral strip and to the battery negative, then there is certainly a lead on the batteries that goes to chassis. So in a round about way, it is bonded.

 

[hillbilly1]

As with mobile homes, RV’s do not bond the neutral to ground, it is done on the service side of the pedestal. Does the inverter have an integral transferswitch? In other words, cord from the pedestal goes into it before it goes to the panel? Or is it stand alone? If it is stand alone, and you want to run existing receptacles in the rv, you will need a transferswitch. If you are running receptacles that are powered only by the inverter, then you will not. As for bonding to the same point as the dc, it does not care, because both are at 0 volts unless you connect the 120 volt output to the 12 volt battery and let the magic smoke out!

 

[Todd0x1]

Couple things to add:
The transfer switch between shore and generator has to switch the neutral as well as the hot(s). The generator needs NG bond. The inverter needs NG bond, some inverters have both line and neutral at 60v over ground, cant use that kind. Usually the inverter will have a pass through (built in transfer switch) that supplies the loads the inverter is capable of powering, typically via a separate subpanel. Obviously you would want only a pure sinewave inverter. Sometimes there is a contactor that switches line and neutral of the RVs cord. The NG bonding can get tricky with a non factory inverter setup.

The transfer switches used in RVs arent like the ones we're used to. They use break before make rotary cam switches (if not electronic w/ contactors) these are often called changeover switch in that industry.