Anchors for Brick

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jmellc

Senior Member
Location
Durham, NC
Occupation
Facility Maintenance Tech. Licensed Electrician
Some of us are debating best ways to anchor heavy loads in brick walls. For lighter loads, I've always done well with plastic anchors. For heavier loads, I've liked 1/4x20 lead anchors. They hammer in well in solid brick and usually do ok using the setting tool if hitting a hollow.

We recently hung really heavy equipment and used 1/2 inch steel drop in anchors, hammering in with a drill attachment. They do well unless they hit a hollow, then they may set but still twist. Brick is hard to spot for holes; some have 1 row, 3 holes, some have 2 rows of 5. I think 3/8 lead anchors would be more reliably consistent. I've not seen 1/2 inch lead anchors, do they make them?

I like lag shields for concrete and have wondered if they would do ok in a hollow, as long as part of it is in solid material.

What anchors do some of you use?
 

blkmagik21

Senior Member
Location
Kennewick
Depends, sleeves work well, even in concrete too. But when I hit a hollow space, my choice is either a toggle bolt, or the like. The ones with zip ties are awesome for the situation. That way you can back the screw back out if needed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

LarryFine

Master Electrician Electric Contractor Richmond VA
Location
Henrico County, VA
Occupation
Electrical Contractor

jmellc

Senior Member
Location
Durham, NC
Occupation
Facility Maintenance Tech. Licensed Electrician
Depends, sleeves work well, even in concrete too. But when I hit a hollow space, my choice is either a toggle bolt, or the like. The ones with zip ties are awesome for the situation. That way you can back the screw back out if needed.


I have used these type toggles but they wouldn't work in the small hollows of a brick. I like them for cinder block and wood.
 
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SceneryDriver

Senior Member
Location
NJ
Occupation
Electrical and Automation Designer
Tapcons can work really well in brick, and they come in large sizes. I've had more than a few strip out in soft masonry though; if that happens, placing a folded-in-half zip tie tail in the hole and then reinserting the Tapcon holds really well. Almost like a Tapcon / plastic anchor combo.

SceneryDriver
 

ritelec

Senior Member
Location
Jersey
Are you referring to lag shields?

NOT sure what he's referencing, but I like the LEAD anchors also.... it's a threaded piece surround by a lead plug. You hammer the proper tool inserts into the thread hole and the outside of the tool gams the lead tightly into the hole...Loved them, haven't used them in years.. problem is, in a fire they melt and everything can come undone.
 

ritelec

Senior Member
Location
Jersey
They make a wide range of supports...
shear weight... little anchors and screws go a long way.. if truly too heavy then through bolt to other side of wall.
 

jmellc

Senior Member
Location
Durham, NC
Occupation
Facility Maintenance Tech. Licensed Electrician
Found them: https://www.tmshardware.com/search?type=product&q=lead+anchor

Huh. Never seen them before. Might have to grab a few for the box of tricks.

I have rarely had any trouble with them. Normal install is with a standard punch tool that usually comes with the box of anchors. Greenlee also makes an anchor tool if you hit hollows. You screw the tool in and tap with a hammer. I forget the exact working but it doesn't let the anchor slip back. Seats it in what solid space you do have. But I have only used them in 1/4x20. I saw on this site that they do have 3/8 and 1/2, as well as others.
 

readydave8

re member
Location
Clarkesville, Georgia
Occupation
electrician
Check out double expansion anchors:

https://www.confast.com/products-double-expansion

I have had decent success with them.
We learned to use them with bolts threaded all the way to head, push them in deep, that way they often find a place to grab at whatever depth works best. Blow dust out of hole to keep it less likely to slip

And often drilled mortar joint instead of brick, brick is brittle and hole may not be uniform, but often the hole being in between courses lets it grab the brick above and the brick below

best way is still to drill all the way through if back side is accessible and use long bolts or threaded rod
 

StarCat

Industrial Engineering Tech
Location
Moab, UT USA
Occupation
Imdustrial Engineering Technician - HVACR Electrical and Mechanical Systems
Sleeve Anchors fro Brick

Sleeve Anchors fro Brick

Some of us are debating best ways to anchor heavy loads in brick walls. For lighter loads, I've always done well with plastic anchors. For heavier loads, I've liked 1/4x20 lead anchors. They hammer in well in solid brick and usually do ok using the setting tool if hitting a hollow.

We recently hung really heavy equipment and used 1/2 inch steel drop in anchors, hammering in with a drill attachment. They do well unless they hit a hollow, then they may set but still twist. Brick is hard to spot for holes; some have 1 row, 3 holes, some have 2 rows of 5. I think 3/8 lead anchors would be more reliably consistent. I've not seen 1/2 inch lead anchors, do they make them?

I like lag shields for concrete and have wondered if they would do ok in a hollow, as long as part of it is in solid material.

What anchors do some of you use?

Sleeve anchors seem to work best in brick, especially cinder block. All you need is a clean hole, and a long enough anchor for what you are working with and going into.
https://www.grainger.com/product/3A...kwcid=AL!2966!3!281733297974!!!g!663182057472!
They do not require excessive force to go in the hold and grab when they are tightened. They give very few problems on commercial jobs with respect to installation. All my heavier control panels in tthis plant are essentially hug with them.
 

Strathead

Senior Member
Location
Ocala, Florida, USA
Occupation
Electrician/Estimator/Project Manager/Superintendent
Sleeve anchors seem to work best in brick, especially cinder block. All you need is a clean hole, and a long enough anchor for what you are working with and going into.
https://www.grainger.com/product/3A...kwcid=AL!2966!3!281733297974!!!g!663182057472!
They do not require excessive force to go in the hold and grab when they are tightened. They give very few problems on commercial jobs with respect to installation. All my heavier control panels in tthis plant are essentially hug with them.

I agree. Sleeve anchors would be the best. Really, block walls have similar issues to brick. If you really needed something to hold I would just call my local Hilti rep, though. My guess would be epoxy anchors where you put a wire mesh basket in the hollow and then epoxy a piece of threaded rod in.
 

tom baker

First Chief Moderator
Staff member
We anchor a lot of heavy equipment, recently a wall mount 75 HP VFD, 36" wide, 48" high, 16" deep to concrete block. Our standard as they work great, esp in hollow block, is Hiliti adhesive anchors. For block walls after drilling the hole a screen tube is inserted, the adhesive dispensed from a 2 part tube (special dispensing gun) and the anchor rods inserted. After a set and curing time the equipment can be installed.
The downside is the cure and setting time, the upside is this is the best product for bricks and concrete block. For our heavy equipment, we use a material hoist, get the holes ready, lift the load into place, inject the adhesive thru the mounting holes, and then insert the anchor rods. Once the adhesive is set we install the nuts and remove the lift.
For smaller cabinets we use 1/4" anchors, larger cabinets we use 3/8" with the long screen tubes and anchors.
I have a kit with all the adhesive, anchors, drill bits, etc. Hiliti has stock available overnight so we don't keep a lot of the adhesive on hand.
This is the Hilit HIT adhesive system. Been using it for 25+ years.

Lead anchors are great for block, but hard to remove....
 

Carultch

Senior Member
Location
Massachusetts
I agree. Sleeve anchors would be the best. Really, block walls have similar issues to brick. If you really needed something to hold I would just call my local Hilti rep, though. My guess would be epoxy anchors where you put a wire mesh basket in the hollow and then epoxy a piece of threaded rod in.

Sleeve anchors have the problem of you not being in control over how much the stud sticks out inside the space for your equipment. Some applications it may not matter, but I know from experience using them to mount equipment that hung from a mounting bracket, and had to cut down the sleeve anchor stud after installation for the equipment to hang on the mounting bracket. Lags/shields or the fastener connected to lead anchors only stick out as much as needed for the lag bolt head and washer, which most manufacturers already anticipate.

FYI, lead in this context is the opposite of follow, not the metal that is the namesake of plumbing. I realize that could be misinterpreted.
 

jmellc

Senior Member
Location
Durham, NC
Occupation
Facility Maintenance Tech. Licensed Electrician
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