GFI 220 VOLTS
- Thread starter domnic
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cadpoint
Senior Member
- Location
- Durham, NC
Nothing personal where are you that you have 220 GFI breaker ?
You need to terminate the neutral pigtail, even if there's no neutral in the circuit it provides. Not landing the pigtail will cause the GFCI breaker to trip and not reset.
Never wired a hot tub?
Never wired a hot tub?
cadpoint
Senior Member
- Location
- Durham, NC
Ok, a dryer and a hot tub need a 4 wire connection to main, yes the GFCI would trip if the neutral
is loose or missing.
At the main the ground in this case would then be carrying the excess current if a neutral was loose. A GFCI is monitors the differance on the current between the current carrying condctors IE a hot, and the neutral are both carrying a current.
I prefer a bigger pool of water!
To read GFI, verses what is really a GFCI, well 0k...
is loose or missing.
At the main the ground in this case would then be carrying the excess current if a neutral was loose. A GFCI is monitors the differance on the current between the current carrying condctors IE a hot, and the neutral are both carrying a current.
I prefer a bigger pool of water!
To read GFI, verses what is really a GFCI, well 0k...
I've done a lot of hot tubs that have a 220 motor (20a) and a 220 heater (30a).
kwired
Electron manager
- Location
- NE Nebraska
I know the test button on Square D GFCI's connects a test resistor between neutral and one of the lines, no neutral = no test current = no trip. I don't know if protection is actually lost though. This has come up recently in a couple of other threads is why I mention it.
Try connecting a load outside the monitored circuit (like connect a lamp from protected "hot" to unprotected neutral - if protection is still functioning it should trip.
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