technical literature woodscrews

[JJWalecka]

Could anyone provide me with the technical data for #10 wood screws hex head?

 

[iwire]

If you are asking about pull out strength etc. that depends as much on the wood as the screw.

You may find your answers here ..... http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/utilities/information.php?info_id=2

 

[Smart $]

Could anyone provide me with the technical data for #10 wood screws hex head?

What is it that you want to know?

Basic lag screw specifications: http://www.smithfast.com/lagscrews.html

ASME B18.2.1 1996: http://www.scribd.com/doc/49916750/...a-Square-and-Hex-Bolts-and-Screws-Inch-Series

 

[JJWalecka]

The question I was hoping to answer in a nut shell......

How much wieght can a #10 woodscrew hold before it fails?

 

[jxofaltrds]

The question I was hoping to answer in a nut shell......

How much wieght can a #10 woodscrew hold before it fails?

I say that it would never fail. The 'wood' would fail first.

You might try to see if there is any info here.

http://www.sbcindustry.com/

 

[iceworm]

The question I was hoping to answer in a nut shell......

How much wieght can a #10 woodscrew hold before it fails?

OP refered to "Hex-head" so I'm guessing you are meaning a 3/16" steel Lag. If so:
Tensile Yield 500 lbs
Shear 300 lbs

In Hem Fir into Side Grain (SG = .43)
Pull out 144 lbs/in
shear 86 lbs/in

Reference
Residential structural Design Guide based on National Design Specification for Wood Construction

Considering how skinny a #10 (3/16") lag looks, I'd be hesitant of loading to more than 3:1 SF

So for a 2-1/2" screw with 2" penetration (don't count the tapered point) Pull out = 100 lbs (3:1 SF)
That's if you bored the precise pilot hole and didn't already snap it off driving it.

Remember, internet advice is worth what you paid for it (except mine - its less)

ice

 

[Dennis Alwon]

Depends on the wood, the density, thickness, and the length of the screw.

 

[templdl]

Depends on the wood, the density, thickness, and the length of the screw.

Precisely.
Also, you want to avoid the end grain as the threads of the screw will cut and slice the fibre of the wood and basically pulverize the grain resulting to very little holding power.
In addition, it is extremely important as to how you prepare the wood for the screw. In most cases you just can't simply drive the screw in as you will most likely damage the wood causing it to split or even snap the screw off.
I always hold the screw up to the light and sight the core or solid portion of the thread. Then hold a drill up to the screw matching the drill size to the solid portion of the thread. After using that drill size to drill a hole the is at least a deep as the screw is going to penetrate when you drive the screw in the screw threads will cut into the side of the hole that you drilled. One thing that you can think about is the hardness of the wood though. Should the wood be very hard you may find if difficult to drive the screw in. If so there is not issue would you use the next larger drill bit. But remember that you don't want to go overboard because making the hole smaller may not be an option.
If the wood is softer you may want to go with a smaller drill than the size of the solid portion of the thread. In doing so the screw will compress the wood as you drive it in increasing its holding power.

 

[gadfly56]

Precisely.
Also, you want to avoid the end grain as the threads of the screw will cut and slice the fibre of the wood and basically pulverize the grain resulting to very little holding power.
In addition, it is extremely important as to how you prepare the wood for the screw. In most cases you just can't simply drive the screw in as you will most likely damage the wood causing it to split or even snap the screw off.
I always hold the screw up to the light and sight the core or solid portion of the thread. Then hold a drill up to the screw matching the drill size to the solid portion of the thread. After using that drill size to drill a hole the is at least a deep as the screw is going to penetrate when you drive the screw in the screw threads will cut into the side of the hole that you drilled. One thing that you can think about is the hardness of the wood though. Should the wood be very hard you may find if difficult to drive the screw in. If so there is not issue would you use the next larger drill bit. But remember that you don't want to go overboard because making the hole smaller may not be an option.
If the wood is softer you may want to go with a smaller drill than the size of the solid portion of the thread. In doing so the screw will compress the wood as you drive it in increasing its holding power.

My dad's trick for longer screws or very hard wood was to take a bar of ivory soap and coat the threads by rolling the screw across the bar. Seemed to work.

 

[Smart $]

My dad's trick for longer screws or very hard wood was to take a bar of ivory soap and coat the threads by rolling the screw across the bar. Seemed to work.

A little spit works wonders too... if you are only doing a few and don't have other means handy

 

[don_resqcapt19]

My dad's trick for longer screws or very hard wood was to take a bar of ivory soap and coat the threads by rolling the screw across the bar. Seemed to work.

I worked in a hardware store when I was in HS and we sold small blocks of bee's wax for that purpose.
Yellow 77 also works for this

 

[iceworm]

I worked in a hardware store when I was in HS and we sold small blocks of bee's wax for that purpose.
Yellow 77 also works for this

Good stuff - beeswax. Also used as a lube for drilling aluminum. But I've never bought a little block - always used a toilet wax ring - preferably unused. According to my dad, they were made from beeswax.

ice

 

[templdl]

My dad's trick for longer screws or very hard wood was to take a bar of ivory soap and coat the threads by rolling the screw across the bar. Seemed to work.

Excellent point that I forgot all about. It's unbelievable how a little bit if soap makes such a big difference. Now that you brougnt that up I keep a junk candle are a hunk of canning wax in my tool box for that. Wax is non-corrosive not that it makes that big of a difference.

 

[don_resqcapt19]

Good stuff - beeswax. Also used as a lube for drilling aluminum. But I've never bought a little block - always used a toilet wax ring - preferably unused. According to my dad, they were made from beeswax.

ice

The toilet ring is a lot softer than the blocks we sold, but I think you are correct that is (or was) a beeswax product.

 

[steve66]

My dad's trick for longer screws or very hard wood was to take a bar of ivory soap and coat the threads by rolling the screw across the bar. Seemed to work.

I used that trick too, until I discovered torx head screws. So much easier than phillips - no slipping- no having to bear down with as much weight as possible.

With a torx, I think you could just keep going until you ran the entire head straight through a 2x4 if you wanted to.

 

[don_resqcapt19]

... So much easier than phillips - no slipping- no having to bear down with as much weight as possible. ...

I have been told that phillips heads are designed to have the driver slip out to prevent excessive torque on the screw.

 

[Besoeker]

I have been told that phillips heads are designed to have the driver slip out to prevent excessive torque on the screw.

From Wikipedia:

By design, Torx head screws resist cam-out better than Phillips head or slot head screws. Where Phillips heads were designed to cause the driver to cam out, to prevent overtightening, Torx heads were designed to prevent cam-out. The reason for this was the development of better torque-limiting automatic screwdrivers for use in factories. Rather than rely on the tool slipping out of the screw head when a torque level is reached, thereby risking damage to the driver tip, screw head and/or workpiece, the driver design achieves a desired torque consistently. The manufacturer claims this can increase tool bit life by ten times or more.

 

[Smart $]

I used that trick too, until I discovered torx head screws. So much easier than phillips - no slipping- no having to bear down with as much weight as possible.

With a torx, I think you could just keep going until you ran the entire head straight through a 2x4 if you wanted to.

Torx is not a very common type of wood screw drive (yet?). Square drive is more common. Of course this is regarding flat head wood screws. The OP referred to hex head, so I don't believe there is going to be any cam-out issue.

 

[templdl]

I used that trick too, until I discovered torx head screws. So much easier than phillips - no slipping- no having to bear down with as much weight as possible.

With a torx, I think you could just keep going until you ran the entire head straight through a 2x4 if you wanted to.

There has been a lot of "roberts" (square) heads being used. I think that they are awesome. A roberts is that square drive head that is used in place of the philips. When the manufacture I worked for stated using the Roberts srews in our panel I watched for 2 weeks while my outside salemen tried to figure out what they were. My outside salesmen were the typre that knew all of the answers an it was fun to watch them as they had never seen them before.
#2 roberts is the most common just like the philips #2.

 

[steve66]

I have been told that phillips heads are designed to have the driver slip out to prevent excessive torque on the screw.

I don't doubt that for a sec. Phillips just doesn't work very well for long screws in hard woods.

Torx is not a very common type of wood screw drive (yet?). Square drive is more common.

They both seem equally available in the hardware store. But I think you are right in a way - It seems like professional carpenters and deck builders always use the square drive.

Of course this is regarding flat head wood screws. The OP referred to hex head, so I don't believe there is going to be any cam-out issue.

Right about the OP mentioning hex head screws. But then ivory soap was mentioned, and I've never needed that for anything but phillips just because of the cam out.