Where to find generator parts?

[nrp3]

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I have a new customer with a Briggs and Stratton 12kw generator that doesn't transfer to gen power. I am guessing its the control board within the transfer switch. You can transfer manually and it will carry the load. The gen transfer coil ohms out the same as the utility coil and it will transfer back to utility on its own like its supposed to. There doesn't seem to be any 120v output to the coil, although if you transfer it manually, eventually it seems to pull in. Its a Cutler Hammer transfer switch. CHGEN100ATSR and I can't find any documentation on their site.

http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/...3/P1010067.jpg

http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/...3/P1010064.jpg

I can get generac stuff, but haven't figured out where to get Briggs and Stratton stuff. I ordered up one of their repair manuals for this generator but don't know if it includes anything on the transfer switch. Once I know for sure what the problem is, where am I going to get the parts BS or CH?

 

[Dennis Alwon]

I would contact the manufacturer.

 

[nrp3]

Probably will call both tomorrow. Who knows when the book will arrive.

 

[hillbilly1]

Your link doesn't seem to work, so I cannot tell if it's like the Generac T-switch, but if it is like it, the solenoid coils are 240 volt, with a 12 vdc relay that controls them. The generator sends a 12 vdc signal to the relay to transfer to generator power, if you do not have this 12 volts, it may be a problem in the control board in the generator.

 

[nrp3]

Here's the link to another site with same thread and the links work there for whatever reason:

http://www.electriciantalk.com/f2/where-find-generator-parts-30979/

 

[nrp3]

This one only has a two wire connection to the generator itself for sensing. The board in the ATS has its own sensing for both generator and utility power. The coils in this one and the board are 120v instead of the 240v. Low generator voltage, bad board, maybe bad limit switch are what I am leaning towards.

 

[hillbilly1]

Here's the link to another site with same thread and the links work there for whatever reason:

http://www.electriciantalk.com/f2/where-find-generator-parts-30979/

Yeah, that one works, the factory sure did a messy job of wiring, or did you have to bust it all loose to troubleshoot? Their using the same switch as Generac, which suprises me that they are using 120 volt coils. Just a different controller which directly controls the switch. Could be a failed microswitch that interlocks the coils. And your right, Eaton gives very little info on this switch. they are probably buying it from ASCO and just sticking their name on it.

 

[nrp3]

I cut the zipties, got me. I can't follow the logic because the drawing doesn't show what goes in or out where or when. Generac has a nice set of drawings with all the sequences of operation. Either the power isn't getting to the coil because of a microswitch, the low voltage is out of the boards tolerances, or the board is bad. I'll have to watch the leds as well, red for standby and green for utility. You can hear the relays in the board close.

 

[hillbilly1]

That kinda leads me to believe it is one of the microswitches mounted on the switch then. I looked up what ASCO has, and it doesn't look like anything they make. Northern Tool has a something close, but not exactly the same. I would check the continuity of the microswitches, they should read opposite of each other depending on switch position.

 

[nrp3]

I didn't look too hard at Asco but here's the link to the CH documentation:

http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@electrical/documents/content/ib01602014e.pdf

Wiring diagram is on page 15, but I can't follow it too well.

 

[hillbilly1]

The diagram does show the coils as 120, fairly simply scheme, the microswitch should already be closed, then the relay on the control board closes energizing the coil, once the switch transfers, the microswitch opens removing power to the coil. You have four possible points of failure, 1. Coil open, 2.Microswitch open, 3.Relay open, 4.Voltage source open. If I remember correctly, the coils have a full wave rectifier built in, and if the rectifier has failed, you may still read continuity, but the coil still will not work. You should have 120 across those two terminals since it does not transfer. If you do not, then its the microswitch or control board.

 

[nrp3]

I am going to take another shot at it tomorrow. Both coils ohmed out at around 3.8 meg and it will return to utility on its own. Guessing not coils. Standby voltage at the E terminals, but seemingly low. I am going to change the oil and filter first and then watch the sequence and see where voltage is and not. I just couldn't follow on the diagram how the microswitches work and where the voltage goes when. The generac ones are much easier to see.

 

[hillbilly1]

I am going to take another shot at it tomorrow. Both coils ohmed out at around 3.8 meg and it will return to utility on its own. Guessing not coils. Standby voltage at the E terminals, but seemingly low. I am going to change the oil and filter first and then watch the sequence and see where voltage is and not. I just couldn't follow on the diagram how the microswitches work and where the voltage goes when. The generac ones are much easier to see.

3.8 meg would be awfully high for a coil, unless the diodes are blocking your meter readings.

 

[nrp3]

Thats what I remember seeing, more importantly I think that they were the same for both coils. I was using a Fluke 189.

 

[nrp3]

I changed the oil and plugs. Set the frequency at 62.3hz, right in the middle of the range spec'd for no load. The best no load voltage I could get was 212v. Looking at the switch it seems to be fine. The microswitches show continuity when they should. When you manually transfer over, the load voltage goes up to 233v, frequency holds. The red light on the board now comes on, theres a green one for utility power too. It waits about 50 sec and then the board relay closes. You here it and it shows continuity. I am going for undervoltage. Now waiting for the book to see what the test procedure is and the readings for stator windings etc. The voltage regulator seems to be two capacitors, so those could be bad too.