Kitchen Receptacles with Countertop Passthroughs

[blargh]

Long time reader, first time poster here. I'm hoping to get some clarification on some receptacles for a kitchen re-wire I'm working on.

First, an easy one: section of countertop 22" wide next to the stove, with full tile backsplash, and cabinet 18" above the countertop surface. It didn't have its own receptacle previously, but now obviously it needs one. In order to avoid having to hack into the tile backsplash, I was thinking to put a downward-facing receptacle in the bottom of the cabinet. Any caveats I'm missing here?

Secondly, this same kitchen has a large passthrough on the countertop into the breakfast room. The opening is 66" wide, with one end connecting to the rest of the kitchen counter as with a peninsula, but with an 11" wide x 5" thick column at the far end. On the kitchen side are under-counter cabinets, and on the breakfast room side the overhang is 12-3/4". I'm not sure how to interpret this under the various subclauses of 210.52(C). If it weren't for that column I think it could happily be treated as a peninsula with a single receptacle, but even with new receptacles added in the column (none exist now) there's a point in the middle of the passthrough that's out of the 24" range. An under-counter receptacle on the breakfast room side would seem to be out due to the overhang, and there's no great place to put one in the cabinet face among all the doors and drawers.

As a related question, one might interpret this countertop to have 2 "sides". Can a new receptacle added on one side of the column also provide coverage for the other side, or would I have to put in back-to-back receptacles to get coverage?

 

[Dennis Alwon]

First, an easy one: section of countertop 22" wide next to the stove, with full tile backsplash, and cabinet 18" above the countertop surface. It didn't have its own receptacle previously, but now obviously it needs one. In order to avoid having to hack into the tile backsplash, I was thinking to put a downward-facing receptacle in the bottom of the cabinet. Any caveats I'm missing here?

It is compliant

Secondly, this same kitchen has a large passthrough on the countertop into the breakfast room. The opening is 66" wide, with one end connecting to the rest of the kitchen counter as with a peninsula, but with an 11" wide x 5" thick column at the far end. On the kitchen side are under-counter cabinets, and on the breakfast room side the overhang is 12-3/4". I'm not sure how to interpret this under the various subclauses of 210.52(C). If it weren't for that column I think it could happily be treated as a peninsula with a single receptacle, but even with new receptacles added in the column (none exist now) there's a point in the middle of the passthrough that's out of the 24" range. An under-counter receptacle on the breakfast room side would seem to be out due to the overhang, and there's no great place to put one in the cabinet face among all the doors and drawers.

Only one is required on the peninsula so, IMO the one added on the column is sufficient.

As a related question, one might interpret this countertop to have 2 "sides". Can a new receptacle added on one side of the column also provide coverage for the other side, or would I have to put in back-to-back receptacles to get coverage?

It depend on what room the other side i, dining room or living room. If it is a dining room then it would count but not if the room was a living room-- assuming the other side meets placement for code.

Now would the counter top need afci if it supplies the dining are? Not sure but there could be a case made for that.

 

[blargh]

Thanks for the reply. The more I think about it, the more I think that approaching it as a peninsula is the best way.

The room on the not-kitchen side is kind of ambiguous; we're calling it a "breakfast room" but there's no real well-defined use. There's this passthrough countertop, and on the other side of the room is a wet bar (which needs its own GFCI receptacle(s), I know). The rest of the room needs coverage with standard wall receptacles, but I guess they should be on a 20A dedicated small-appliance circuit (with AFCI protection?) to avoid any potential hassles.